Teacher Trekker

Hoi An, Vietnam – Self Guided Walking (or Bicycle) Tour in Ancient Town

Drew Architecture, Art, Asia, Buddhism, Culture, Entertainment, Global History, History, Hoi An, Museum, Painting, Religion, Resources, Sculpture, Self Guided Tour, Southeast Asia, Statue, Temple, Theater, Tour, Travel Tips, UNESCO, Vietnam, Walking Tour

The best way to take in the rich history and culture of Hoi An Ancient Town is to explore the neighborhood by foot. I have been to Hoi An two times and found there no need to book a guided tour. Instead, go on a self-guided walking tour with my help. If you have read My Hoi An Story then you already know that I have a local contact in town. With his help I managed to cover all 22 of the sites in the UNESCO zone in a single day during the summer of 2014, but I’m not suggesting that. At the end of the day, the ticket agent told my friend that he didn’t know of anyone who covered all the sites in one day. He also told me I was crazy, which is true. I’m just completely obsessive when I travel and found it important to leave no stone unturned. I didn’t want to let a guide book or website determine the best sites and make me miss something I may have found personally significant. After visiting all of them it was clear that many of them could have been skipped for reasons I will explain below.

Beautiful shot of the sun bursting through the clouds while exploring the Hoi An harbor area.

This guide actually didn’t come into fruition until I returned to Hoi An the following year. I returned to Southeast Asia in the summer of 2015 when a change of plans led me to alter my original itinerary and met with friends in Vietnam. When it was time to explore Hoi An Ancient Town my friends turned to me to play tour guide, which I gladly accepted. I trimmed down the list of 22 to the most relevant places to visit, grabbed some background information and designed the best route. That afternoon became the seed to this article. Included in the guide below you will find: a detailed history of Hoi An, its reason for becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a suggested list of destinations to visit, basic background information about each of them, links for more history, a pinned street map and best route for your Hoi An Ancient Town Self-Guided Walking Tour.

Japanese Covered Bridge as seen from the nearby rickety makeshift bamboo bridge that you shouldn’t stand on!

The History of Hoi An

Before outlining the walking tour it is important to understand the significance Hoi An plays in Vietnamese history. Since the first century the town of Hoi An has served as a central port for many historically important trade routes. Running through the town is estuary of the Thu Bon River. For centuries it has brought goods from the interior of the country to the mouth of the river and the South China Sea. Between the 7th and 10th century the port city grew in scale and significance as the spice trade expanded under the Cham people. By the 16th and 17th century merchants from Chinese, Dutch, Japanese, Indian and Portuguese fleets came here to trade with the Vietnamese. French missionaries were followed by their merchant vessels and eventually Vietnam became the crown jewel of the burgeoning French Indochine Empire.

Hoi An continues to remain an active fishing village.

Towards the end of the 18th century, the port’s importance declined with the fall of the Nguyen dynasty. This was followed by Emperor Gia Long giving the French exclusive trading privileges with Da Nang. French colonialism expanded over time and was at its peak in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, eventually ending in 1954 with their defeat to local forces in the First Indochina War. This was followed by the Second Indochina War with the Americans, commonly referred to as the Vietnam War. During all of the conflict, Hoi An remained out of the war zones preserving the majority of the historic buildings. The result, now almost two hundred years, many parts of Hoi An, specifically its Ancient Town still remain virtually unchanged preserving it as a time capsule of Vietnamese history.

Hoi An lanterns decorating the streets by day!

Hoi An’s multicultural history and unique character has earned it recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They decree that, “Hoi An Ancient Town is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century. Its buildings and its street plan reflect the influences, both indigenous and foreign, that have combined to produce this unique heritage site.” There are a plethora of historically significant cultural and sites to visit. It’s people are welcoming and industrious, most easily seen in the garment industry. The traditional architecture and narrow streets create a feeling of intimacy unlike many other travel experiences (UNESCO World Heritage Site – Hoi An Ancient Town).

Hoi An Ancient Town as seen from the balcony of one of the many Ancient Houses (or was it the Tea House?)

Hoi An Ancient Town is actually a protected historical zone that together totals some, “1,107 timber frame buildings, with brick or wooden walls, which include architectural monuments, commercial and domestic vernacular structures, notably an open market and a ferry quay, and religious buildings such as pagodas and family cult houses. The houses are tiled and the wooden components are carved with traditional motifs. They are arranged side-by-side in tight, unbroken rows along narrow pedestrian streets.” The majority of structures were built in the 17th and 18th century and their existence makes the a rare example of the remaining historical sites in the region.

Ornately Decorated Traditional Dragon Roof

“The original street plan, which developed as the town became a port, remains. It comprises a grid of streets with one axis parallel to the river and the other axis of streets and alleys set at right angles to it. Typically, the buildings front the streets for convenient customer access while the backs of the buildings open to the river allowing easy loading and off-loading of goods from boats.” Much of the original canal network and drainage systems are still in use. As a result of this, “the town continues to this day to be occupied and function as a trading port and center of commerce. The living heritage reflecting the diverse communities of the indigenous inhabitants of the town, as well as foreigners, has also been preserved and continues to be passed on. Hoi An Ancient Town remains an exceptionally well-preserved example of a Far Eastern port.”

Wandering through narrow alleyways!

Things You Need to Know Before Hitting the Ancient Town

Within the Hoi An Ancient Town UNESCO zone there are a total of 22 sites that you can visit: 21 sightseeing destinations and 1 traditional art show/performance. They include, “living houses, ancestral worshipping houses, temples, communal houses, assembly halls, bridges, pagodas, water wells” and a few small museums. In the pamphlet provided by the Hoi An Office of Tourist Services these sites are organized into color coded categories that reflect similarities in architectural forms and purpose. They are also numbered to reflect their street address. Actually, there are more even more locations to visit, but they are unlisted in the tourist guide.

It is necessary to purchase an entrance ticket in order to access any of the points of interest in Hoi An Ancient Town. Otherwise, you can walk around outside and not gain entry to any of the buildings. They can be purchased at one of the Tourist Information Centers or Ticket Booths around town. Each set of tickets costs 120,000 VND ($5 USD) and allows you entry to 5 sites. At each location there will be an attendant to cut 1 of the 5 tickets off the stub. They are valid for 10 days if you don’t plan on using them all at the same time. For more information check out the Hoi An Tourism Website.

Since, many of the buildings share commonalities it would be the wisest to begin with the most historically significant and beautiful site from each category of building. Along the way you will pass many restaurants, cafes, tailor shops and specialty stores in traditional Shop Houses. Including a 30 minute lunch and a few shopping stops this tour should take you around 3 – 4 hours. My complete recommended walking tour will make 9 stops: 1 is free, but the other 8 require entry tickets. Also included is my single ticket abridged walking tour, which will save you some money by skipping 3 sites. Plan on finishing by around 4:30 p.m. in case you want to see even more locations, because starting around 5:00 p.m. the buildings begin to shut down for the day.

Money Saving Travel Tip

Now some things they may not tell you. If you plan on seeing more than 5 sites it will be necessary to purchase additional sets of ticket, but remember they are only sold in sets of 5. In this case less is more. There is no need to buy more than necessary. You can always go back to one of the ticket vendors and purchase more. Do the math correctly amongst your group, because you can use the same stub for multiple people. Each individual does not require their own stub. For example, if a group of 5 had no tickets and only wanted to visit 1 site they only need 1 ticket to cover the 5 entries. Many people usually visit somewhere between 5 and 10 sites and often have extra entries on their stub. Someone heading out of town may just give you their stub if you ask politely over drinks and you can pay to forward by giving any extras to someone before you depart Hoi An. Just don’t give them any expired stubs!

Purchase your tickets here!

TeacherTrekker’s Recommended Hoi An Ancient Town Walking Tour

Make your way to Bach Dang Street just before the docks to locate the Hoi An Information Center (#23 – XQ Hoi An on the map) so that you can purchase your tickets. From there walk down Hoang Van Thu Street. Walk two blocks and make a right on Tran Phu Street until you reach the intersection with Nguyen Hue Street. You will find your first couple stops there.

None of the museums blew me away, but this is the best of the bunch!

First Stop – Museum of Hoi An History & Culture (#7) – Skip if only doing the single ticket tour!

“The Museum of History and Culture in Hoi An is the first museum to visit on your trip to Hoi An. This museum is almost like a show-and-tell summary of the entire heritage of Hoi An.” There are artifacts of all kinds with exhibits dating back to 3000 BC during the era of the Dong Son civilization working its way to contemporary times. The museum is very small and should only take a little while unless you plan on reading everything. It is a great starting point before you peel back the historical onion that makes the town so unique. If you’re uninterested begin with the suggestion below.

Exterior of the Quan Cong Temple, a.k.a. Ong Padoga

Second Stop – Quan Cong Temple (#24)

On the same block is the Quan Cong Temple, also referred to as Ong Pagoda or Chua Ong Pagoda the Ong. It is located at 168 “Tran Phu Street [which] is a typically old and traditional Chinese district; and so the presence of this 17th century pagoda in such a location indicated towards its heritage. The Ong Pagoda in Hoi An which is dedicated to ‘Quan Thanh De Quan’ – also known as ‘Quan Van Truong’ – was erected in 1653 in honor of its namesake, who was an ancient Chinese general. Quan Thanh De Quan was a prominent figure of the ‘three kingdom’ era of China,” which is reflected in the artwork that fills the temple (Asia T&L).

Front Doors of the Ong Pagoda

Third Stop – Minh Huong Communal House (#14)

The “Minh Huong people were permitted to found their Minh Huong village in Hoi An in the mid 17th century.” Interestingly, the skillful hands of the craftsmen in Kim Bong carpentry village had created this architectural work and the talented carpenters in Kim Bong are now performing its restoration.” It has been restored in 1820, 1849, 1905, 1953, 1970. If you visit the carpentry village prior you will appreciate this location even more.

Fourth Stop – Hai Nam Hoi Quan (Hainan Chinese Temple) or Tu Do Tham Quan Pagode (#N/A)

You will be able to visit a free temple at 10 Tran Phu Street. “It was built in 1851 by the overseas Chinese of Hainan County, who resided in Hoi An to serve the community and religious activities of Hainan and Jialing people. This assembly hall is used to worship 108 Chinese merchants who were unjustly killed because they were mistaken for pirates. Later, they were vindicated and named deities by King Tu Duc, who granted the money to build this assembly hall in order to worship them forever” (Hoi An Tourism Website).

Quiet afternoon at the Hainan Chinese Temple

Fifth Stop – Trieu Chau Assembly Hall (#157) – Skip if only doing the single ticket tour!

The next stop is to the Trieu Chau Assembly Hall and it has as many names as Snoop Dogg. It is also referred to as Zhao Zhao or Ghaozhou Assembly Hall and even Bon or Am Ban Pagoda all depending on the language of the person you are asking. It “was built by Chinese overseas coming from Trieu Chau (China) in 1845. It is dedicated to the God of Wind and Big Waves” (Zhao Zhao). The assembly hall is full of beautiful artwork, but located at the far edge of the historic zone. If you are uninterested in taking the 10 minute round trip detour then skip this assembly hall. However, I found all 3 of the assembly halls to be the most interesting set of buildings and urge you to see them all. If you are interested just keep walking down Tran Phu Street until it turns into Nguyen Duy Hieu Street and you will easily located the assembly hall.

My buddy Minh outside the Trieu Chau Assembly Hall

Sixth Stop – Phuc Kien Assembly Hall (#46) – Skip if only doing the single ticket tour!

If you enjoyed the last stop then you are sure to also be impressed with the Phuc Kien Assembly Hall. It was constructed in the 1690’s by Chinese merchants from the Fukian Province and because of that is also known as the Fukian (or Fujian) Assembly. The structure is actually a temple dedicated to the “sea goddess Thien Hau. Then there is goddess Thuan Phong Nhi, who is able to listen to the sound of a ship even at a distance of thousand miles. At last the goddess Thien Ly Nhan is also in the altar and she is able to see those distant ships” (Hoi An Tourism Website). The architecture is adorned with symbolism pertaining to mythical creatures. Some of the statues are quite impressive. The entrance gate and garden was actually built in 1975. If you don’t want to go inside you can still walk around the entrance. The ticket agent may be inside allowing you to peek in further than you might think.

The architecture is adorned with symbolism pertaining to mythical creatures. Some of the statues are quite impressive. The entrance gate and garden was actually built in 1975. If you don’t want to go inside you can still walk around the entrance. The ticket agent may be inside allowing you to peek in further than you might think.

Seventh Stop – Old House of Tan Ky (#101)

There are a number of ancient houses and family chapels that through its architecture demonstrate a long history of cultural diffusion of Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese and French styles. There are actually 5 different building styles, but more on that in the links above. There is no reason to visit all 6 of these locations. Instead, head over to the Old House of Tan Ky as it best represents the architecture and history seen in these structures. To get there double back down Tran Phu Street towards Japanese Covered Bridge, but don’t go there just yet! Instead, when you reach Le Loi Street make a left. Then make a right on Nguyen Thai Hoc Street and along the middle of the block you’ll see a black sign demarking this destination.

Seven generations have made this residence their home since its original construction. “The Old House of Tan Ky, Hoi An has a unique combination of three types of architecture. There are examples of Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese construction techniques. There is a great deal of symbolism. For example, the 5 columns represent the 5 elements. Iron pulleys are used to lift everything off of the first floor in the even of flooding. Ask to see the water damage.

“There are four rooms in the Old House of Tan Ky, Hoi An. All these rooms are small in size, but packed with various beautiful antiques. These antiques are mainly made of wood. These four rooms are for four different purposes. One is for welcoming the Chinese merchants and the other are living room, courtyard and the bedroom. You can enter the other three rooms except the bedroom.” Honestly, this is my favorite of the ancient houses in Hoi An. I feel it is well maintained and staffed. Ask for a guide who will teach you about the dwelling and the family who has maintained it for centuries.

Eighth Stop – Quang Trieu Assembly Hall (#176)

This is one of my favorite assembly halls in Hoi An. Congregation To get there make a left on Nguyen Thai Hoc Street when you exit the Old House of Tan Ky. Continue walking until you reach Chau Thuong Van Street and make a right. When you reach the intersection at Tran Phu Street you will see the assembly hall to your left.

It was “built in 1885 by Chinese overseas who came from Guangdong/ Cantonese (China)” (Hoi An Tourism Website). Because of this it is often referred to as the Cantonese Assembly Hall or the Assembly Hall of the Fujian (or Fukian) Chinese. Call it whatever you’d like, because the sculptures and paintings throughout the complex are some of the best in town. My favorite part of the complex was the dragon fountain made out of ceramic pottery in a sort of mosaic style. It’s a must visit and considered by many to be the top stop in Hoi An Ancient Town!

Ninth & Final Stop – Japanese Covered Bridge: The Symbol of Hoi An (#N/A)

“The Japanese Covered Bridge or Cau Chua Pagoda (in Vietnamese “Cau Nhat Ban”) is one of the most famous tourist attractions in Hoi An, Vietnam. The original Vietnamese name of this bridge is ‘Lai Vien Kieu’.” The bridge was “built by the Japanese community in Hoi An… in the early seventeenth century. No trip to Hoi An would be completely without visiting Japanese Covered bridge” (Hoi An Tourism Website).

There is a small pagoda inside where you can make offerings. The carpentry and interior artwork is a true relic of the past and the structure stands as an enduring symbol of the history of Hoi An. It is a site not to be missed. When you’re done walk towards the canal where you’ll find a rickety bamboo bridge (don’t cross it unless you dare) and the square fishing nets in the water. This spot will give you the best vantage point for photographs of the Japanese Covered Bridge.

Still Wanting More?

If you are interested in seeing even more sites you have three options. You could start with the recommended Hoi An Ancient Town Self-Guided Walking Tour that I have provided and once you get a feel for each building types you may want to visit other locations similar to them. You could do that at the completion of the recommended tour or another day. Second, you may choose to visit some of the other sites that you will pass on my route. Your third option is to design your own route with even more stops using my upcoming 5 Simple Steps to Design a Walking Tour. Don’t worry everything is in a close proximity and you really need to try if you want to get lost.

Complete List of Destinations in the Hoi An Ancient Town UNESCO Zone

In the pamphlet provided by the Hoi An Office of Tourist Services the 22 sites are organized into color coded categories that reflect similarities in architectural forms and purpose. They are also numbered to reflect their street address. There are also a number of sites that are unlisted on the map, but included on the local tourism website. I have not visited all of the unlisted sites. Some of them do and others do not require tickets. Also included will be a brief personal note and various links to background information about each site. Here is a full list of all of the possible destinations:

Japanese Covered Bridge – The Symbol of Hoi An is a Must See!

Assembly Halls – Of all the building types these are my favorite!

Communal Houses – As a group these buildings were my second favorite.

Large Incense Coils Honoring Loved Ones

Museums – Only 1 makes my must see list!

  • Museum of Folk Culture (#33) – If you see a performance on the first floor consider hoping inside to watch, but otherwise skip it unless you have an interest in the topic.
  • Museum of Hoi An History & Culture (#7) – If you’re going to visit one of them this is the one! In many ways this museum includes subjects seen in the other three.
  • Museum of Sa Huynh Culture (#149) – Learn about the pre historic Bronze Age civilization of the Sa Huynh people.
  • Museum of Trade Ceramics (#80) – Unless you love pottery you can skip this location.

Ancient (or Old) Houses & Family Chapels – Only 1 makes my must see list!

Enjoy a Show at the Hoi An Traditional Art Performance House

Viewing Local Craftsmanship & Talent – Good example of culture, but nothing spectacular.

For the Foodies – Interestingly, it’s not food!

  • Ba Le Well – The source of the Cham well water used to make the famous Cao Lau dish.

Consider a half day excursion to My Son Sanctuary!

Hardcore History Single Day Double UNESCO Site Itinerary

Consider planning ahead for a single day double UNESCO Site itinerary. You will be able to see the history of the region from its ancient roots well into the 19th century. This is the best option if you have a limited amount of time in town (1.5 – 2 days) and are interested in seeing as much history as possible. Here’s what to do:

You can begin your morning at the My Son Sanctuary and explore thousand year old ruins. Follow this up with a boat ride to the Kim Bong Carpentry Village before returning back to Hoi An. (I have booked as late as 10:00 p.m. Once back in town grab some lunch with help from my Top 10 Foods to Eat in Hoi An. I’d recommend trying the White Rose Dumplings.

When you’re done head over to the Tourist Information Center and begin your Hoi An Ancient Town Self-Guided Walking Tour. By the time you’re done it should be some time in the afternoon. Once it’s 6:00 p.m. head over to An Hoi Island and sit outside people watching, while having the best pork rolls on earth. This will allow you to try my 2 favorite dishes in town, while covering #1, 12, & 21 on my Top 25 Things to Do in Hoi An. It will be a long day, but allow you to experience the best of Hoi An in a single serving.

Conclusions

At this point it should be clear that there are a plethora of locations to visit in Hoi An to immerse yourself in its rich history and culture. You may wander around town bumping into many of these locations, but to get the best understanding of the area it is best to go on a more structured Hoi An Ancient Town Self-Guided Walking Tour. The route that I designed will allow you to sample the best attractions throughout town and afford you the luxury to add extra sites along the way.

I hope that you have found this guide useful. If you have any questions feel free to Contact Me. When you’re done with your Hoi An Ancient Town Self-Guided Walking Tour consider grabbing a bite to eat or getting involved in some other activities around town. For more information check out my upcoming Top 10 Foods to Eat in Hoi An and my Top 25 Things to Do in Hoi An. Happy Trekking!

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