Teacher Trekker

In many ways Singapore can be viewed as a microcosm of Asia. As you make your way around the tiny island country, you will encounter a number of neighborhoods that embody the culture and cuisine of the ethnic minorities that dominate these areas, specifically Chinatown, Little India, Kampong Glam, Gelling Serai, and Katong/Joo Chiat. Each are unique in their own right and dedicated to the preservation of their ethnic heritage. The neighborhoods are full of businesses dedicated to serving ethnic dishes and selling authentic and/or imitation goods. Whether you are just passing through on your way to your next attraction, looking for lunch, or dedicating some time specifically to explore one or more of these districts, your time will not be wasted.

Chinatown

Chinatown is the largest of these ethnic enclaves. It was established in 1828 after Sir Stamford Raffles introduced a policy that called for the creation of a district for each ethnicity in Singapore. Since that time the neighborhood has expanded significantly and continues to serve as a magnet drawing in new Chinese immigrants. The population has grown so much that today, approximately 75% of the nation’s population is Chinese Singaporean, helping make Singapore the only country besides China with an ethnic Chinese majority. In general, their national loyalties are to Singapore, but they consider themselves ethnically Chinese. Keeping this in mind, you’re basically as close as you can get to China without actually going there.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum

Once you’re in Chinatown, you may want to consider starting at the Chinatown Heritage Center if you are looking for in-depth historical information about the neighborhood. Consider stopping at Than Hock Keng, the oldest Taoist temple in Singapore, where you can witness more traditional religious practices from Singapore’s older Chinese residents. If you are interested in seeing Singapore’s Chinese Buddhist community, then stop at the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum. If you’re interested in shopping there are many streets lined with small shops and stalls selling everything from cheap souvenirs to exotic antiquities.

Singaporean Chili Crab from Chinatown Seafood Restaurant

Finally, if you’re not going to Chinatown on an empty stomach then explore the neighborhood and build up an appetite. Make sure to visit Food Street to sample traditional Chinese food and Singaporean Chili Crab. Interested in something smaller? Then stop at the food stalls on Trengganu Street. If you are visiting the district at night, keep in mind that the Chinatown Night Market is open Monday to Thursday until 11 p.m. and Friday, Saturday & public holidays until 1 a.m.

Sri Mariamman Temple

Please note that Singapore’s oldest Hindu temple, the Sri Mariamman Temple is actually located in Chinatown and not in Little India. It is also not to be confused with the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, which is located in Little India.

Transportation Info: Exit at the Chinatown MRT Station (NE4/DT19)

Closeup of the Exterior of the Sri Veerama Kaliamman Temple

Little India

In the 1840’s the area east of the Singapore River where Little India is currently located was once the site of a racecourse where locals congregated. After the cattle trade began, the industry became dominated by Indians. The need for labor resulted in an influx of Indian migrant workers who settled in this area. Over time the neighborhood expanded to eventually become the ethnic enclave that people are most familiar with today.

Sri Veerama Kaliamman Temple

Presently, Little India is one of the most colorful districts in Singapore. The neighborhood is peppered with a mix of Hindu temples, Chinese temples, mosques and churches. If you are interested in religion, then make sure to visit one of Singapore’s oldest Hindu temples and notable landmarks, the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple. There is much more culture to experience besides visiting religious sites.

Recommended Restaurant in Little India

If you are looking to go shopping then you are in the right place. The area surrounding Serangoon Road is filled with countless stalls and businesses selling all sorts of products. The Tekka Centre is largest indoor ‘wet’ market in Singapore where you can find everything from fresh produce to exotic spices. At the Little India Arcade you can find cheap souvenirs, make-up, jewelry and other knick-knacks. Walking along Campbell Lane will lead you to vendors selling traditional saris. If you’re a night owl, the Mustafa Center is open 24 hours and sells everything you could imagine from food to electronics.

Make sure to eat with your hands!

Speaking of food, there are many places to dine in Little India. Your hardest decision will be choosing where to eat. You can find vegetarian inspired dishes from Southern India or Tandoori dishes from North Indian. You can also find locally inspired dishes like roti prata, which are round pancakes. Whatever you choose, if you’re looking for a more authentic experience, make sure to eat with your hands. It’s messy, but a fun process for anyone not familiar with this eating style. Locate a brewer who will “pull” you a teh tarik, a hot milk tea from Malay culture. If you’re looking to satisfy your sugar craving consider stopping at the Moghul Sweet Shop.

Transportation Info: Exit at the Little India MRT Station (NE7/DT12)

The Sultan Mosque from a distance.

Kampong Glam (aka Muslim Quarter)

Kampong Glam is located north of the Singapore River within the Kallang and Rochor urban planning areas. The area was originally the home to Singapore’s old Malay royalty. That began to change after the British East India Company established the area as a trading post in 1819. Shortly after, the area was designated for Sultan Hussein Shah of Johor and his household. Malays and Arabs, many of whom were merchants, were also accepted into the neighborhood. By the second half of the nineteenth century a small, but successful group of Arabs made their roots in the neighborhood. Over time the neighborhood has become increasingly multicultural, but the Malay and Muslim traditions are evident. The district was refurbished, and as a result, it feels somewhat gentrified in what appears to be part of the hipster invasion that continues to destroy another pocket of local culture one city at a time.

There are a number of key buildings in the district worth mentioning. The former royal palace, or Istana as it is referred to in Malay, is now the home of the Malay Heritage Center. It contains eight galleries that highlight the history and culture of Singaporean Malays. On Wednesdays they put on traditional performances featuring dancers in Malay dress and perform using authentic musical instruments. Since the 1920’s the golden dome of Singapore’s largest mosque, the Sultan Mosque, can be seen from a distance and serves as a sight marker when walking towards the district. More precisely, it is located at the corner of Arab Street and North Bridge Road. Visitors are welcome to enter between the hours of 9 a.m. and 1 p.m. as long as they are appropriately dressed.

Once the home of Singapore’s Arab community, the blocks surrounding Arab Street & Baghdad Street are full of tradition but fresh with contemporary changes. Today the blocks are lined with restaurants, carpet dealers, fabric distributors, art galleries, antiquities dealers and souvenir shops. The side streets have many bars and hookah lounges that are filled with locals and tourists alike. Many of the surrounding walls are covered with graffiti art and murals. It is obvious the neighborhood is shifting towards modernity, while retaining its ethnic roots. Consider visiting during Ramadan to experience Kampong Glam when the neighborhood truly comes alive.

Transportation Info: Exit at the Bugis MRT Station (EW12/DT14) It is a short 5-10 minute walk to Kampong Glam.

Geylang Serai Market

Geylang Serai

If Kampong Glam is the ethnic enclave that best highlights traditional Malay culture, then Gelling Serai is considered the home of modern Malay culture. This ethnic enclave is located to the east of Singapore’s central business district. During the early 1920s, large portions of Kampong Glam’s Malay population moved to Geylang Serai as space became much more limited in the older district. Since that time it has been another home for Malay culture.

Entrance to the Malay Village & Cultural Museum

Speaking of culture, an exploration in the area will lead you to the Malay Village and the Cultural Museum where visitors can witness the significance of traditional Malay culture on the people and district. Additionally, you will be able to locate many shops and restaurants to keep you busy. There are a number of shophouses and hawker centers on and nearby Geylang Road that sell affordable and tasty dishes. Another dining option is to walk around the numbered lorongs (streets), but I must warn you first. The blocks surrounding Lorongs 14, 16, and 18 are part of Singapore’s authorized red-light district zones. As a result, the neighborhood is seedy, but pales in comparison to other such areas throughout Southeast Asia. Everyone’s definition of seedy is different, but compared to what I have seen traveling or witnessed growing up in New York City this is nothing. On a positive note, there are many affordable hotels and hostels in the neighborhood if none of this bothers you.

Transportation Info: Exit the Paya Lebar MRT Station (EW8/CC9) It is a short 10 minute walk to Geylang Serai.

Colorful Houses along Koon Seng Road

Katong/Joo Chiat

Katong is residential neighborhood located in eastern Singapore near the coast. Originally, the area was home to coconut plantations, but during the late 19th and early 20th centuries many wealthy residents built villas for weekend getaways. Originally, it was on the seafront until a land reclamation project in the 1960’s resulted in the development of new housing and recreational areas. As time went on, the neighborhood became increasingly populated by Peranakans and Eurasians.

The Peranakan or Straits Chinese is an ethnic conglomeration of Malay and Chinese culture. If you are interested in architecture and culture, make your way to the Katong Antique House to view Peranakan heirlooms and antiques. There are many other shophouses along Koon Seng Road and East Coast Road. There are many stores selling various Peranakan clothes and handicrafts. If you are looking to go shopping for traditional clothing, then stop at Kim Choo Kueh Chang to purchase beaded slippers or a “kebaya” and “sarong”. The cultural experience does not end there.

One of Many East Meets West Motifs

The neighborhood is also known for its tasty ethnic food, particularly the hawker stalls on East Coast Road. There are also many interesting small cafes and coffee shops. If you’re looking to eat Nonya cuisine, then consider trying the well known Katong “laksa” or dumplings known locally as “kueh chang”. I have heard good things about 328 Katong Laksa, but have not dined there personally.

Adjacent to Katong is the Joo Chiat area. The neighborhood was named after Chew Joo Chiat who was a wealthy Chinese landowner in the early 20th-century. The area is most well known for its exquisite pre-war architecture. The majority of the buildings are colorful two-story shophouses or terrace houses. They are decorated with precisely detailed facades, motifs and ceramic tile work.

Transportation Info: There is no MRT station that will take you directly to Katong. By car it will only take you around 10 minutes from the city center. Otherwise, it is necessary to take a bus to reach the eastern coastal region.

Bus to East Coast Road: Take the SBS 10, 12, 14, 32, 40 or 155 from the Bedok MRT station (EW5)
Bus to Joo Chiat: Take the SBS 15 or 155 from the Paya Lebar (EW8/CC9) or the Eunos (EW7) MRT stations.

There is another option entirely. Instead of rushing, you may want to consider staying at one of the refurbished Peranakan decorated hotels for a more complete experience in the Katong/Joo Chiat area.

Don’t sleep on visiting Chinatown & the other ethnic enclaves in Singapore!

Conclusions

Singapore is a country that draws on the cultures and traditions of many ethnic groups making it the melting pot that it has become today. Experience Chinese traditions while exploring Chinatown. Take in the scents of exotic spices in Little India. The Muslim Quarter is rich with Islamic traditions, but is quickly becoming a center for contemporary art with a bohemian flare. Both Kampong Glam and Geylang Serai are epicenters for Malay culture and cuisine. Get out of the city and head towards the eastern coast for a taste of Nonya cuisine in the Peranakan area of Katong in the Joo Chiat neighborhood. Whether you are looking to experience culture or craving a delicious dish, Singapore is full of ethnic enclaves that are well worth exploring. Happy Trekking!