Teacher Trekker

In recent years Kampot has quickly transformed itself from a relatively unknown small riverside town into a newly emerging center for expats residing in Cambodia. The town has grown in recent years to accommodate the growing number of foreigners who have settled there, as well as backpackers and tourists heading to the region to explore Bokor National Park on the road between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. Presently, the town has a very bohemian feel with artisans, hippies, hipsters and every version of an unshaven caveman you can imagine that makes it an extremely relaxed place to visit or make home like so many of the foreigners living in the area. This influx has resulted in an increase in transportation routes, hotels, guesthouses, cafes, bars and restaurants, which are all part of much needed infrastructure in this newly emerging tourist town. All of this makes Kampot much more appealing for people to visit, but there remains a problem.

Unlike many heavily trafficked backpacker locales in Cambodia like Phnom Penh or Siem Reap there is considerably less available information about Kampot with the exception of one helpful website and unofficial travel guide. As a result, I find it important to pass along many of the lessons that I learned during my time in Kampot. This article will hopefully assist you in planning your transportation and lodging accommodations, as well as provide basic information about the available dining options. Then once you have worked out the logistics, you may want to continue reading my 10 Things to Do in Kampot & Bokor National Park Tour articles regarding activities and attractions around Kampot.

Traveling to Kampot

Kampot is located on the road between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. It is approximately 150 kilometers south of Phnom Penh and 100 kilometers east of Sihanoukville making it pretty much the midway point between these two destinations. Therefore, stopping and exploring Kampot is the best option for anyone looking to travel more slowly through Southern Cambodia.

Travel time to and from Phnom Penh is dependent on the bus company that you book with as each has different stops along the way. The trip could take anywhere from 2.5 to 5 hours. Local traffic patterns can also impact the time it takes to get to your destination. Bus companies leave at different times, but essentially there are three windows to depart Phnom Penh: the morning (8-9:00 a.m.), late morning (10-11:00 a.m.) and mid afternoon (2-2:45 p.m.). If you are traveling from Kampot to Phnom Penh be prepared for a morning or afternoon departure.

In general the more you pay, the faster the trip, and the better accommodations. One way tickets can cost as low as $5USD. Giant Ibis Transport Bus Company which claims to be the “luxury first class” offered an $11 ticket one way. It was by no means “luxury”. Rather it was like every other minibus I’ve ever taken with a tour in Vietnam. There was decent air conditioning and wifi, that unlike most companies actually worked, so I was more or less satisfied. What was supposed to be a 3 hour trip ended up taking over 4 hours due to airport related rush hour traffic.

Travel time to and from Sihanoukville could take you just under 2.5 hours, but again that is dependent on the bus company, the amount of stops they will make and traffic patterns. One way tickets should cost approximately $5USD. Most transportation heading along this route will depart in the morning (8:00-9:00 a.m.) or early afternoon (12 p.m.) so plan a day prior to your intended departure date, because it isn’t always possible to book early morning same day tickets.

There is also the possibility of taking a taxi instead of booking with a bus company. Private taxis are available for anyone willing to spend the extra money or for people who are traveling in a large group. The individual cost after splitting the cab can potentially be cheaper than a single ticket on a bus. If you are traveling alone or in a small group you may be able to share a taxi with other travelers. Some companies may charge a flat rate per seat, while others may offer a van rate that needs to be split among the total passengers. These options are especially helpful if people are in a jam and/or trying to travel at times other than the regularly scheduled bus departures.

Lodging & Accommodations

Before you just book a room anywhere it is beneficial to know that there are a variety of types of sleeping accommodations throughout Kampot and that each come with their own benefits and drawbacks. Many cities and towns throughout Southeast Asia do not require you to book rooms in advance as there are often so many lodging options that you can find a room at the right price with a bit of walking and negotiating. I did not have that experience in Kampot and recommend that it would be wise to properly plan ahead before arriving in Kampot.

When my friends & I arrived in Kampot, the van dropped us off in the town center around 6 p.m., and there wasn’t the typical horde of touts and tuk tuks. We didn’t have any wifi, but did have the names of a few locations we were considering. After hailing a tuk tuk, the driver brought us to the locations, but most could not accommodate all of us (there were only 4 of us). They were already booked to capacity and/or something didn’t sit well with someone in the group. The sun set quickly and all of a sudden we were being driven around pitch black roads going aimlessly from one location to the next. We ended up splitting up and staying at different accommodations based on people’s preferences. It was getting to the point in the evening where we just needed to settle somewhere and put our bags down. I returned to the guesthouse with the nicest available room of the few I viewed who also offered us the most competitive rate. Over the course of my time there I also visited a number of other locations. All of this will now help me better paint a picture of the options available to you.

The first available option includes your basic guesthouses & budget hotels. There are many of them that are scattered throughout Kampot, some closer to the town center than others. Rooms with fans will cost upwards of $8USD and air conditioning will cost a bit more at around $12USD an evening. Amenities are more or less the same, but there may be differences from guesthouse to guesthouse. Be aware that there are two types of guesthouses. Some cater to foreign tourists, but the majority are actually designed to accommodate domestic travelers.

I didn’t know this when I paid, but honestly it made no difference to me whatsoever. Actually, I didn’t even realize until an expat asked me why I was staying at the Bokor Bay Tong Guesthouse. When I told him they gave me a discounted $10 room the conversation shifted elsewhere. I could’ve relocated, but once checked in I had little desire to move until I left town for Sihanoukville. Besides, there was little to complain about. The air conditioning stayed on even when you were not in the room, and there was a mini fridge and hot water. Most importantly, it was quiet at night because there were no drunk foreigners making noise at 4 o’clock in the morning. The biggest problem I had was the language barrier. Honestly, if I hadn’t been told it was for domestic travelers I never would have realized, but I thought you should be aware.

The second available option is staying at a hostel. There are actually less traditional hostels than in many other parts of the country and Southeast Asia. Instead, many of the guesthouses have dormitory accommodations for as low as $2-3USD a night. There are a few hostels like The Mad Monkey Kampot (part of a chain that has additional locations in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap) that embody the true hostel experience. They have a variety of amenities including a bar and nearby pool to cool down in the heat. I spent some time there meeting up with some new friends. It is your typical Southeast Asia hostel. It was loud, full of graffiti (most of which was poorly tagged impromptu traveler scribble), smelled of stale beer and was full of drunk screaming college age backpackers. It was also a good distance away from the main strip on Street 735. The walk was much longer than I expected. Save the time and hop in a tuk tuk. If you’re looking for your typical backpacker scene then this is where to stay in Kampot, but if you are trying to avoid the madness, there are many other options available closer to the town center.

The third option available is the riverside guesthouses. They are constructed in the bungalow style minus all the pretty crystal blue water like in Bora Bora. Some of them are located directly on the shore and others are offset behind the shoreline. You will be able to find dorms, small single rooms and entire bungalows. Some have shared bathrooms, while others are private. It really depends on the location. You can find a single bed for around $3-5USD working your way to the nicest accommodations between $20-30USD. Most have a bar and lounge area to take in views along the river. One of my friends stayed at the Naga House. It was a fun little spot, but his primary complaint was the amount of mosquitoes and other bugs. Yes, sleeping alongside a river during the summer may result in an increased need for bug spray. You have been warned.

The fourth and final option includes the high end hotels. Some are arranged like standard hotels, but others include resort style bungalows and bed & breakfast style guesthouses. I passed by many of them and they did not look like palaces of luxury and decadence, but they were certainly nicer than your typical lodging options. Expect to pay an average of $50USD, but there are rooms for as low as $25 all the way up to $100 for the best accommodations in the area. Although no one I was traveling with stayed at any hotels in this category, I met a number of tourists who did and most had mixed reviews.

Keeping this in mind, there are many different types of accommodations available throughout Kampot. That being said, they appear to all be very hit or miss. I interacted with locals, tourists, backpackers and expats who stayed in numerous locations. Some had great rooms for $5-10USD and others had a horrible experience at rooms that cost over $20. It seems that in Kampot there is no rhyme or reason. Do more research and read recent reviews before you book your lodging to avoid any unnecessary disasters.

Food & Dining

Many local expats believe that Kampot is going through a food and cultural revolution. Much of this has been the result of the influx of Western tourists and backpackers, and it’s not necessarily a bad thing. With them has come an increased demand for higher quality food options. Despite Kampot’s small size, there are now many dining options available that can accommodate all types of travelers. Between the cafes and restaurants that run parallel with the river on Street 735 and the plethora of establishments in the old quarter near the market there should be something for everyone.

Most of the restaurants have menus available in both Khmer and English, as well as employees who speak generally just enough English to only make one mistake regarding your order. Finally, keep in mind that as the evening progresses there are less Western dining options available particularly during off-peak travel seasons. Check to see if the kitchen is still open at the bars along the river. There was one bar open much later than the majority of the establishments serving Western food. If you’re looking for local cuisine, the karaoke bar across the river was serving food all night until closing.

Prices will vary from location to location, but there are some generalizations that can be made. Restaurants tend to cost more than small cafes and street stands. If you’re looking for a Western meal you will probably spend around $5USD for the main course. Local rice and noodle dishes cost about $2USD, but may cost more depending on the protein. As far as beverages go, coffee can be as cheap as $0.25USD and a can of soda will cost around $0.50USD. If you’re looking for some quality coffee, then stop at Café Espresso Kampot, but bear in mind the prices are more expensive than your average cup of coffee. Beer costs more or less $1USD with many businesses running specials at various points throughout the day and night. Hard liquor and wine will cost slightly more. You can find cheap options and decent specials at Oh Neil’s, Nelly’s Bar, and Madi Bar along Street 735. Otherwise, keep your eyes peeled for signs with any good deals as you explore.

To be completely honest, I was not blown away by the food in Kampot. That being said I did not dine at any higher end restaurants or places worth mentioning with one major exception. Located at a roadside food stand on Street 722 is Ciao or what many referred to as “The Italian’s”. If you’re looking for authentic Italian cuisine during your time in Kampot then you’re in good hands with Chef Diego. This Italian expat cooks with the freshest ingredients the Cambodian market has to offer and infuses it with the techniques he learned growing up in Italy. The seating is limited and all the dishes are cooked to order, so be prepared to wait, but it is well worth your time.

The best way to locate Ciao‘s fine dining food stand is from the corner of Streets 735 & 722. If you are standing at the intersection with the river behind you Nelly’s Bar is on the corner of right side of the street. Walk past Nelly’s down Street 722. There will be some local food stands on the left. Continue past them and you should see a small stand with a bamboo fence in front of it, a few chairs and a picnic table. If it is dark, and it very well might be, look for a lit sign that reads “Pizza Pasta”. It is towards the end of the block, and if you cross the next intersection then you have already gone too far. If anything ask the bartender at Nelly’s, and he’ll point you in the right direction.

The menu isn’t very large, but there are still many tasty options. There are 3 pasta options and 8 different sauces. Over the course of two evenings sampling dishes with friends I had gnocchi 5 ways, fettuccine, mushroom ravioli (there is a meat option), and the meatball side order. Also on the menu were pizza, focaccia, and calzones that I didn’t sample. The best part was that each dish was at the most $4USD for a large western sized portion of Italian tastiness. It’s literally dollar for dollar the best Italian I have ever eaten and it’s often extremely hard to compete with the cooking done by my Italian family members and in highly accredited Italian restaurants I frequent throughout New York City. Eat at Ciao! Chef Diego’s cooking will not disappoint!

Conclusions

Kampot is quickly emerging as a burgeoning riverside community that has been attracting more and more travelers in recent years. There has been an influx of tourists turned residents who are settling in the area. In many ways this new expat community is greatly responsible for the rapid change being experienced in the town. The wants and desires of Western backpackers have resulted in an expansion of businesses and infrastructure to support this growing demand. Transportation routes have expanded making travel much easier. An increasing number of guesthouses, bungalows and hotels at various price ranges can accommodate many different types of travelers. Food and beverages are very affordable with a growing number of locations serving Western food along with local Cambodian cuisine. If you are traveling on the road between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville consider stopping in Kampot for a few relaxing days to explore some of the local attractions like Bokor National Park and meet friendly expats like Chef Diego while dining at his roadside restaurant Ciao. Happy Trekking!