Teacher Trekker

Situated approximately 45 miles north of Cabo San Lucas at the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains is the small coastal town of Todos Santos. Prior to Spanish colonialism into the region, there were native indigenous people who populated the Baja strip. During Spanish colonialism, Father Jaime Bravo established the first mission in 1723. The Spanish were eventually pushed out, and Europeans of various backgrounds came to work in the newly emerging mines. After the mines proved to not be as valuable as anticipated, the companies left, but the immigrants remained, shifting over to ranching.

By the second half of the 19th century following the secularization of the missions, Todos Santos began to emerge as the primary source of sugarcane in the Baja region. By 1950 overuse of the land resulted in the town’s freshwater source to drying up and crippling the sugar industry. It was not until the construction of Highway 19 by the government in the 1980’s that the town began to regain some of its former glory. The mid 1980’s marked the beginning of an artistic revolution that continues to expand to this day. The agricultural industry also rebounded. Today artists and tourists alike flock to the town for its natural beauty, rich culture and opportunities to view or partake in creative artistic endeavors. If you’re somewhere near Cabo and looking for a more authentic Mexican experience make sure to visit Todos Santos.

Tours & Traveling to Todos Santos

Travelers interested in visiting Todos Santos have a few options. The first choice is to take a group tour with one of the many travel agencies in the area. I came across two tours. One is a day trip to the town and the other is an afternoon/evening trip that involves a sunset viewing. The tours were not available everyday so you may need to plan ahead of time or who may miss out. The second option is to take a private tour with a guide. This is the most expensive option, but if you have a large enough group and/or some extra money to spend, it can potentially be very rewarding. The third option is to get a rental car and make the trip up north without an agency.

There is some information worth being aware of for anyone interested in the first two options. You can book either tour at numerous locations with a few companies, but choose wisely. Booking through your hotel may direct you to a company with which they have a partnership and from which they earn commission. It may possibly cost you a bit more, especially if you’re staying at a nice resort which may try to up-charge you, but there is minimal chance of any false advertising and tour mismanagement.

Another option is to go to one of the Wild Canyon Information Centers. If you are interested in multiple tours, it may be worth going there and bartering for a package deal and across the board discounts. The location I went to is in the town of Cabo San Lucas a block away from El Squid Roe. They scheduled me on a tour operated by Rancho Tours. Based on my experience, I highly recommend this tour company, and if I was ever in the area again I would contact them directly & cut out all the middlemen.

Your last option is to get a rental car and drive up the coast on Highway 19 (from Cabo San Lucas). Interestingly this may be the cheapest option, but you won’t have a guide to give you tons of information about the area, its people and culture. I would suggest this option to anyone trying to spend a full day or multiple days in the town. This may also be a smart idea for anyone interested in visiting some of the nearby beaches. You simply won’t have enough time to hit the beaches and see the town in one day. If you want to consume alcoholic beverages, then driving is not a smart idea unless you are staying overnight. Plan accordingly so you don’t spend the day in the rental car or in jail after being caught drunk driving on the Baja coast.

The cost of the day trip to Todos Santos from Cabo San Lucas was $80 per person and could cost even more if you’re staying at hotels closer to San Jose del Cabo. After some negotiation, the price was discounted from $160 to $110 for two people after giving a $50 cash deposit. That deposit was returned to us by our tour guide once we were picked up. I was also able to negotiate with him to drive us to our new hotel at the end of the tour day. He was willing to take us to Puerto Los Cabo for an additional $30. Considering the cab should cost $65 from Cabo San Lucas to our new hotel, it was well worth the money. That being said, we paid $140 for the tour and the additional transportation for something that without any discounts would have cost a total of $225 ($80×2 = $160 + $65 = $225). I was able to earn this discount and many more by signing up for a timeshare presentation. If you are interested in learning more about the discounts I obtained please read my article Cabo Tours & Timeshares.

The Road to Todos Santos

We were told to be ready at 9:05 a.m. and much to my surprise, we were actually picked up promptly at the designated time. There were a total of 8 passengers including my friend and me. By 9:15 we were out of town and on our way to Todos Santos. We first drove west until the highway turned north up the coast. To our left was the blue expanse of the Pacific Ocean stretching out to the horizon and to our right were desert mountains full of cacti.

Our driver started talking about the local flora and fauna. The region is rich with wildlife. The list was extensive and included many different mammals. There are small rodents like mice and chipmunks. There are also larger mammals including badgers, skunks, raccoons, and deer. The predators in the area include coyotes and the larger mountain lion (or puma as it is referred to in Baja). As far as reptiles, there are lizards, but no iguanas and almost 35 different kinds of snakes, a number of which are poisonous including 5 species of rattlesnakes. There are a variety of birds, most notably roadrunners and vultures. The region also is inhabited by large tarantulas. Although it was nearly impossible to see this wildlife with the exception of some of the birds, one thing that was easily spotted were what the driver referred to as “500 year old cacti” that only grow an average of 2 inches a year and are noticeably different than the much smaller, greener looking cacti.

Shortly after passing Migrinio Beach to our left (opposite side of the van photos of the dry river bed) our driver transitioned into a conversation about the history of the Baja region, its native people and the waves of migration that have helped turn the town and area into its contemporary form. More detailed information can be found in the section above entitled the History of Todos Santos.

Did you know Todo Santos is a “Magical Village”?

Because of its rich history the town of Todos Santos was recognized by the Mexican government’s “Programa Pueblos Mágicos”, Spanish for ”Magical Villages Program” in 2006. This initiative was originally implemented in 2001 by Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism (SECTUR) in coordination with other national, state and local agencies. Its mission is to promote towns that offer its guests a “magical” experience due to its natural, cultural and/or historical relevancy. They often have a very colonial feel to them. Many include important art, architecture and historic landmarks. These “villages” are now nationally protected sites that help promote local tourism, while maintaining the beauty and history of the town for years to come. Since 2001 approximately 85 towns in all 31 states have been awarded the title “Pueblo Mágico” including the silver town of Taco and Tequila known for— well isn’t that obvious, to name a few. San Miguel de Allende was once on the list, but was removed after being recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

Blanket Making Factory

At approximately 10 a.m. after an hour of traveling, we stopped at a blanket making factory and outlet store. It was on the tour itinerary. Once out of the van, we were given a short demonstration of Mexican weaving. The process was like any other traditionally operated textile mill with little if any unique modifications to the equipment being used. This is one of those quick stops on many group tours aimed at getting tourists to spend money and support the local economy. If you are not interested in purchasing anything, I would recommend walking around outside as the view of the ocean and surrounding landscape is beautiful. Personally, I feel like you should buy something even if it is nominal to help support their business and thank them for all of the photos you just took.

We were welcomed to browse the factory store. I wasn’t particularly interested in purchasing anything. Looking back I probably should have gotten the handmade hoodie, but it’s too late now. The store had a variety of other souvenirs made and sold throughout the Baja region including an alcohol I was not familiar with. They offered free samples, which everyone turned down except me. They ran out of plastic shot glass cups, but that didn’t matter to anyone. One of the employees handed me an almost empty bottle. He motioned for me to take the last swig and finish the bottle, which I did despite not enjoying the flavor of the alcohol. Continuing to try to be polite I purchased some sample size bottles for people back home. We stayed at the blanket making factory for just about 30 minutes before jumping back into the van.

Arriving in Todos Santos

From the Blanket Making Factory it only took another 15 minutes before reaching the outskirts of Todos Santos. Along the way, we passed a few more beaches, one of them a beach specifically for surfing and a number of small resorts and hotels off the highway. As we arrived, the van slowly made its way up a large hill to reach the town center. Before exiting the van, we were given a short ride around Todos Santos where our guide highlighted a number of historic buildings, art galleries, restaurants and other locations that may be of interest during our exploratory time in the town. This took us around 15 minutes. By 11:00 a.m. we were free to explore for the next 3 hours before meeting at the van in the parking lot of the church.

Suggestions & Recommendations

Despite the size of Todos Santos there is more to do than I realized. Below is a list of activities and attractions that may be of interest to you. In the sections to follow there will be additional information about each of the recommendations. Depending on your level of interest in some of the suggestions below, you may want to consider an extended stay rather than a tour group. Don’t rush! It’s not the place for it!

# 1 – Visit the Historic Sites of Todos Santos

There are a number of historic attractions in the town of Todos Santos that are worth a quick stop. They are easy to locate and free to enter. There is the Misión Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Todos Santos (Our Lady of Pilar Church) that dates back to 1733. Probably the most popular attraction is the Hotel California that shares the same name as the famous Eagles song, but more on that shortly. There are also a number of other smaller sites like the remnants of the former El Molino Sugar Mill and old buildings that have now been repurposed, but I’m only going to highlight the two previously mentioned attractions. If you are looking to visit a small museum which I did not have the time to visit then head over to the Casa de la Cultura possibly referred to by its full name the Centro Cultural Profesor Nestor Agundez Martinez.

According to the information plaque in front of the Misión Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Todos Santos (Our Lady of Pilar Church) the site’s location was first “explored by Father Jaime Bravo in 1723. He wanted to build a ‘vista’ town able to help support the mission of Nuestra Señora del Pilar in La Paz. He explored these southern lands in February of the same year and chose this place for a ‘vista’ town due to the great number of ‘pericúe’ Indians he found there, as well as for its climate and soil conditions, good for agriculture. Under Father Bravo’s direction, sowing of some crops began. Amongst the more important crops were corn and sugar cane.

As time went by, Todos Santos became one of the main providers of the mission of Nuestra Señora del Pilar in La Paz. In 1733 the ‘vista’ town became the mission of Santa Rosa de Todos Santos and Father Segismundo Taraval was appointed the resident missionary. Later, when the mission of La Paz was closed, the Mission of Santa Rosa de Todos Santos adopted the name Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Todos Santos.”

Make sure to stop by and see the mission, but only briefly. It is very plain in both interior and exterior design making it not the most visually stunning religious site I have been to. Rather its simplicity is where the beauty really exists. Look carefully and you can find a few remnants of the mission’s colonial past. Today, the church contains a contemporary statue of the Virgin of Pilar, which every year in October serves as the focal point of Todos Santos’ primary festival.

Ground was broken for the construction of the Hotel California in 1947 and was opened in 1950. It was originally owned by a Chinese immigrant who first ran a market store selling vegetables and fruits to earn the profits necessary to establish the hotel. The history of the hotel gets quite fuzzy. How the band the Eagles and the song Hotel California tie into this legend is questionable at best.

There is no evidence that the owners of the hotel have any affiliation with the Eagles and vice versa. The lyrics in the song share a number of similarities with the hotel and surrounding area. The hotel is accessed at night on what becomes a dark desert highway. The cool breeze in my hair could be referencing that Todos Santos is cooler than the rest of the cities in La Paz & Cabo. Around the corner from the hotel is the Mission Church of Pilar. There are many witnesses who have told stories about supernatural forces in the courtyard. There is also a reference to the growing and smoking of marijuana that was made possible in the fertile soil in the area. Considering the lyrics there are clear similarities, but it could fit to almost any hotel in a coastal town.

The Hotel California was established almost twenty years prior to the 1960’s hippie era making the connection harder to make. Don Henley of The Eagles has consistently defended the position that there is no link between them. Maybe the Eagles are just trying to avoid royalty fees for use of the hotel’s name. Regardless, it is very good marketing on behalf of the hotel which is reaping the benefits of this myth. Fact or fiction, it’s worth a short stop in the hotel, because the interior is beautifully decorated with interesting art and sculpture.

# 2 – Walk Through One of the Many Art Galleries

Todos Santos is the home of many talented artists, but that wasn’t always the case. This artistic revolution is often credited to painter Charles Stewart who moved to the town in the early 1980’s. By 1986 a road was built that made transportation easier, resulting in an influx of other artists into the area. Since that time the town has become an artistic center that features many galleries.

Some of the galleries feature multiple artists, while others are dedicated to the work of individual artists. Galleries can be found throughout the town. Many can be easily found as you walk through the narrow streets of Todos Santos, while others are hidden behind businesses and less easily discovered. No matter which direction you explore there is something else to discover. At this point artistic imagery covers the interior and exterior of colonial buildings, restaurants, bars and walls throughout the town. Whether you are looking for paintings, sculpture or the avant-garde, there is always something just around the corner in Todos Santos.

# 3 – Sample Authentic Mexican Products & Shop for Handmade Souvenirs

The town of Todos Santos is full of a host of specialty stores that sell various locally and domestically produced goods that travelers may want to buy. In less than an hour I must have wandered in and out of over a dozen of these shops looking to see what I could get my hands on. I’m always looking for personal souvenirs, presents for friends & family, as well as resources for my classroom. I came across a number of interesting items worth mentioning and a few others that didn’t really interest me, but possibly will peak the interest of other travelers with different tastes.

Our tour guide brought us to a silver store at the Plaza Maria Bonita shopping center to demonstrate to us how to test the metal. In a nutshell, nitric acid turns the silver green and will bubble demonstrating it is silver plated, an alloy or fake, while a milky white residue is the indicator for pure silver. I wasn’t interested in purchasing any silver, but if you are interested in purchasing any jewelry, there are many stores that sell it. One store had interesting leather masks. Unfortunately, they were just too expensive.

Speaking of leather I finally found a leather shop behind Tequila’s Sunrise that sold the money clip hybrid wallet that I have been searching for quite some time. Two years of searching markets throughout Southeast Asia failed to produce this item, but I finally found a store that sold handmade genuine leather that had what I was looking for. The tanner did not have change for me so he brought me to another store to get change, but I ended up using the change to purchase some items in the other store. That was exactly his plan, but I didn’t mind. He had no idea that it was going to be my next stop regardless.

Within the same shopping complex there was a candy & liquor store. I’m not familiar with local Mexican candy, but the tanner was more than willing to assist. He had me try various samples of different types of dried fruits and chocolate. Many of them were covered in tamarind. It was an interesting taste like nothing I’ve ever tried before. I bought a number of mango tamarind candy balls that you slice up and eat in pieces. I found the chocolate way too rich, and I am a fan of rich dark cacao. After the sugar rush it was time to move on to the alcohol.

I’m hardly a drinker, but I’m never one to turn down free samples. I tried various types of tequila that were infused with different flavors. They also sold damiana, which I sampled and purchased at the blanket making factory earlier in the day, but was able to gain more information about the liqueur. The damiana plant is a small shrub that grows well in the dry hot climate of the Baja region. It is turned into a sweet alcoholic beverage that can be sipped alone or as a part of mixed drinks. It is also believed to have aphrodisiac powers. Damiana is popular in this region of the country, and according to the local oral history is also believed to be used in the original margarita. If you are of age, make sure to give some of these alcohols a try.

Around the corner from the La Katrina Surf Shop you will be able to find a Mexican man dressed in all white traditional clothing from one of the native tribes located on the mainland of the country. There you will find him working on his latest project. The table in front of him will be filled with an assortment of handmade beaded souvenirs. The level of detailed craftsmanship was exceptional, but this work comes at a price. Unfortunately, I found the prices so high that I was unwilling to purchase the large or small beaded skull, but I did purchase a variety of beaded bracelets in various colors for myself and friends. Ask a shop clerk which direction to walk so you don’t miss his stand.

# 4 – Grab a Bite to Eat & Enjoy an Adult Beverage

Although I did not spend an extensive amount of time in Todos Santos, it quickly became apparent that there was a plethora of food and beverage options throughout the town. The real question you need to ask is, “what are you in the mood for?” Here there is something for everyone. If you are looking to stay on a budget, there were ample small taqueria style restaurants that served typical Mexican cuisine. There were plenty of mid range restaurants that expanded your menu choices with food inspired by other cultures or a fusion of local flavors with more exotic accents. There were also a number of high end fine dining experiences like Sergio Garcia’s La Casitas Tapas Wine Bar for those with the most expensive taste. Too bad I didn’t get this suggestion from my father until I regained wifi once back in Cabo. Finally, there are also a number of bars, cantinas and coffee shops if you’re looking to take a break, but are not interested in eating a full meal.

Purely because of time and proximity, I ended up grabbing drinks and a quick meal at Tequila’s Sunrise across the street from the Hotel California. I ordered the signature drink and was surprised to see that it wasn’t a tequila sunrise. Instead I received a large and very strong margarita that had a splash of damiana liqueur. After the drink, my friend and I explored the town, but since it was the meeting point of our tour we went back to Tequila’s Sunrise for a quick bite to eat prior to leaving Todos Santos.

Upon our return the manager (possibly the owner) said, “I know you! You’re TeacherTrekker!” That’s probably because I bombed the bathrooms with my QR code stickers, but I was only adding to the names and phrases already written on the walls. We ordered and the food came out promptly. I was impressed. The chips were fresh and the homemade guacamole was excellent. The fish tacos were probably the best I had all week. I also ordered a tequila sunrise, because how can you not have the drink the place was named after. The sweetness of the grenadine cut the overpowering amount of tequila in the drink. I actually enjoyed it more than the margarita.

I guess someone didn’t mind my stickers everywhere. He must have checked my website or something, because he came up to me to discuss my blogging. He sent over a complimentary dessert of chocolate flan cake that was out of this world. The food, drinks and hospitality motivated me to post a few photos on Instagram and Twitter, as well as mention them here in the blog. That’s good business and I recommend you stop by for a meal or drink (or two). I wonder how many stickers are still there? Let me know!

# 5 – Explore the Town & See What You Can Find

One of the best ways to explore somewhere new is to simply wander around. The good thing about Todos Santos is that it is quite small. The streets were extremely easy to navigate. I didn’t have a map nor did I even look for one. It helped that our tour guide drove us around the town for a few minutes prior to stopping and letting us out of the van to explore, but the layout is simple.

Basically the center of town is at the top of a large hill. It is there where you will find the Misión de Santa Rosa de Todos Santos, the Hotel California and Tequila’s Sunrise Restaurant & Bar. I used that hilltop location as my primary reference point and based all navigation in relation to the town center. All you need to do is make your way back to the highest point in town and you will be back where you started. Whether you are looking for art, locally produced handmade goods, scenic views, a good meal or a bar to relax in it’s only a short stroll away from the town center. My only warning is that the town has many hills that some may consider step. The further you walk away from the town center the longer uphill walk you will have on the way back, but don’t let that stop you. Get walking and let me know what you stumble across!

Conclusions

Prior to my visit I knew there was a great deal to do and see in Todos Santos, but now that I have finished writing this article, it is even more apparent how much time you could spend exploring the history and culture of Todos Santos and the Baja region. Consider staying there rather than Cabo San Lucas. It is a walking town so make sure you have on a comfortable pair of shoes and hit the town strolling. Make sure to visit some of the art galleries and craft stores. Try new candy, foods and drinks. If you’re of legal age, indulge in some of the domestically produced alcohols. Grab a bite to eat at one of the many restaurants. Most importantly relax. Todos Santos beats to a very slow drum so try not to rush around and do everything all at once. There’s more than you can do in a day so consider staying overnight and getting at least two days in this very magical town. Happy Trekking!