Teacher Trekker

The Abbey at Saint Gall is located in the city of St. Gallen, which is the capital of the St. Gallen canton in northeastern Switzerland. The Abbey at Saint Gall, also referred to as the Abbey of Saint Gallen and the Convent of Saint Gallen was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. It is a large Carolingian era monastery that is comprised of many buildings and surrounding grounds. Some of the highlights include the Cathedral/Convent, the Library (Stiftsbibliothek), and the Lapidarium. Luckily enough it is located only approximately 45 minutes from my friend’s home. We were lucky enough to borrow the family car and take a day trip to visit this historic UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Getting to the Abbey at Saint Gall

We made our way by personal vehicle to the city center of St. Gallen. Actually, the GPS instructions were coming up a second late and forcing the system to continually recalculate the travel route. We could have arrived 20 – 30 minutes earlier if we properly followed the street signs and ignored the GPS instructions. To make matters worse, the car’s camera system was acting up and the proximity alarm would beep continually whenever we were at a red light. (It turns out the camera system was frozen and due to the ice it was tricked into thinking there was a car right behind us. The constant beeping at every traffic light and stop sign began to wear on our patience.) Eventually we stopped to look at the map and realized that driving was problematic, because much of the city center does not allow vehicles to access many of the streets in order to preserve the historic area. Combining these factors, we decided to park at the next lot that we came across. Local buses and trains will allow you to get close to the area, and you will need to walk from there. Checking local schedules will best allow you to time your visit.

We ended up a few blocks away from the Abbey at the Neumarkt Mall parking lot. They were the smallest spots and lanes I’ve ever seen, but we managed to squeeze into a spot with our large van and made our way to street level. From where we parked, it only took around 5 minutes to walk over to the Abbey. The weather was cold, windy with a light snow. After walking around the exterior of the walled abbey and taking a few photos, the weather inspired us to make our way inside. We saw a sign leading us towards the library, so we decided to start there, but first a bit more about the history of the Abbey at Saint Gall.

Historical Background

The history of the Abbey at Saint Gall can be traced back to the early 600’s when an Irish monk named Gallus established a hermitage around 613 at the location of the current monastery. While traveling throughout the Arbon Forest near Lake Constance, he got trapped in undergrowth near the River Steinach and took that as a sign to build on what is today believed to be the location of the Chapel of St. Gall in the courtyard. After his death, he was buried behind the chapel altar. By the 8th century, Saint Othmar founded the construction of what developed into a Benedictine abbey built in the Carolingian style. It gained recognition for a center of scholarship, art and monastic discipline between the 9th and 11th centuries. The library was and still is one of the greatest medieval libraries in existence. It became an independent municipality between the 9th and 13th centuries, eventually earning Imperial and Papal privileges that allowed for the acquisition of land and property in the surrounding area. During this time the Abbey of Saint Gall became a center for religious spirituality and intellectual development.

The Late Middle Ages was a difficult time across Europe, and the monastery fell into decline, but experienced a period of revival during the 15th century. Following its restoration and the changes associated with the Reformation that spread across Europe, it was no longer as significant an intellectual and religious center as it was in its past. Its introduction of the printing press made it one of the most important monasteries in the country. The Toggenburg War of 1712 resulted in great change and misfortune for the monastery when the plunderers returned to Zurich with books and other treasures. (Only a portion of it was ever returned.)

During the Baroque Era, the Abbey’s Benedictine spirit maintained high levels of discipline, spirituality and educational standards allowing them to endure. It resulted in the Baroque inspired rebuilding project of the convent area and library from 1755 to 1768 under the leadership of Prince Abbot Cölestin Gugger von Staudach, who also commissioned the building of the Abbey church, which would become the cathedral. For centuries the location served as the home of one of the chief Benedictine abbeys in Europe. The order was dissolved when the Abbey was secularized in 1805 forcing monks to relocate, but the legacy of the work completed at the Abbey over its history can still be seen throughout the Cathedral, the manuscripts and other works in the Abbey Library and the associated buildings and grounds.

The Abbey Library (Stiftsbibliothek)

Footsteps along the snowy path and a small sign directed us to the Abbey Library. We made our way inside from the cold. Tickets to access the library must be purchased at the gift shop on the second floor, the same floor as the library itself. Tickets cost CHF 12, but there are discounts for students and groups of 10 or more. Following this brief stop you make your way down the hall to the ticket agent. The ticket agent requests that before entering the library all visitors first put on large booties that cover your shoes and protect the wooden floors. Since the library can only accommodate approximately 100 people, it is best to avoid weekends, holidays or peak times. The library is open Monday to Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and on Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. but is closed on Christmas Eve, Christmas, New Year’s Day, Good Friday and Resurrection Sunday. Additionally the library is typically closed for 3 weeks between November and December. Check the website for the most up to date information available, so you don’t plan a trip and have to miss the crowning jewel of the entire complex.

The Abbey at Saint Gall Library (Stiftsbibliothek) is one of the richest and oldest in Europe, let alone the world. Depending on the source, the collection contains anywhere from 150,000 to 170,000 documents. Some can be dated to over a thousand years ago. Some of the highlights of the collection include: “Irish manuscripts of the 7th and 8th centuries, the illuminated manuscripts of the St Gall School of the 9th and 11th centuries, documents concerning the history of the origins of Alemannic Switzerland, as well as the layout of the convent during the Carolingian era (the only manuscript plan of that time remaining worldwide, conserved in its original state, representing a concept of monastic organization of the Benedictine order).” (Source) For preservation purposes only researchers are allowed to access any of the historic manuscripts, but that should not deter anyone from visiting the Abbey Library.

We spent almost 90 minutes inside the library and had we not been on a schedule, I could have spent the rest of the afternoon there. In order to protect the contents of the library, visitors were continually reminded by signs that no photography was allowed inside the room. Maybe that’s a good thing, because I would have used up all of my memory. The room itself was freezing cold as excessive heat would also damage the extensive book collection housed inside. Everyone had their jackets and hats on, but you could tell people were still chilly. A few people even went so far as to put their gloves back on. That being said, a winter visit will be a chilly one, but it should have significantly less tourists because of that fact.

It was one of the most breathtaking rooms I have ever stood in. I’m not quite sure what my eyes captured first, but it was definitely sensory overload. The library was constructed between 1758 and 1759 by master builder Peter Thumb in a Rococo style. He constructed a two level hall that stands as one of the most exquisite baroque rooms still preserved for viewing. The walls are lined with manuscripts, some a thousand years old. They are housed in ornately carved wooden cases that were designed by lay brother Gabriel Loser and completed over the course of many years with the assistance of his apprentices.

Artist Josef Wannenmacher was responsible for the ceiling, which he covered with detailed paintings that are packed more iconography than I could handle listening to the audio guide and/or begin to explain in detail. The four largest depict the first four Christian Councils (Nicea – 325; Constantinople – 381; Ephesus – 431; Chalcedon – 451). There are also painting of early theologians referred to as the Fathers of the Church. There are also paintings dedicated to the sciences and inscriptions. To dissect all of his work would have taken more hours than available in the library.

The craftsmanship did not end there. The magnificent stucco work was completed by the brothers Johann Georg and Matthias Gigl, who were also responsible for the work done in the cathedral. Each of the twenty cherubs above the window frames had their occupation and background meaning. The symbolism throughout the room was overwhelming. The wooden floor would creak at times as you walked across, or should I say shuffled across it in your oversized shoe mittens, but you couldn’t help but look in awe at the wood grains and stains of the variegated wood and precise geometric shapes that were used to design its repeating four compass star pattern. Yet, the experience did not end there.

Once you enter the Abbey Library, visitors encounter a large globe. Actually this globe is a reproduction of the original and a source of controversy. In 1595 a celestial and terrestrial globe was purchased by Abbot Bernhard II Müller in Konstanz. The globe is based on a Mercator map and shows the four known continents as of 1571. Constellations were overlaid and empty spaces were filled with artwork of ships and sea creatures. Its cradle was detailed with the Abbot’s coat of arms. It remained in the Library until the Toggenburg War when in 1712 troops from Zurich took it as a prize of war along with other manuscripts and documents. The globe remains in Zurich at the Swiss National Museum. This copy was commissioned by the Canton of Zurich as “indirect compensation” for the original. There is still debate and controversy regarding the return of the original to the Abbey despite the compromise reached.

The interior of the library also contained other artifacts and documents that were put out for display. There were a number of glass cases with old manuscripts and texts. One of the highlights of the library’s collection is available for viewing is the Saint Gall monastery’s original building plans that was probably drafted in 819. The plans are on a scale unlike most other constructions during the same time. It is most significantly the earliest-known architectural plan drawn on parchment to have survived since the Early Middle Ages.

Other artifacts and display cases appeared to be a part of a continually changing exhibition that highlight the magnificent collection housed in the library. Among the collection I was able to view were old documents about the evolution of secular and nonsecular laws, but I was most impressed by a book of the Gospels from the 400’s that was presented to Charlemagne and kept in an ornately carved bone case. There were sarcophaguses in the back corner of the room. Even the limited amount of the collection that was available for the public to view was impressive in terms of the historic preservation of religious, political, social and cultural documents that the Abbey Library has amassed over the course of its history.

Following our time in the Abbey Library we returned our shoe covers and went back to the gift shop. I purchased a book about the entire Abbey properties that would help me write this article and better understand some of the symbolism we were encountering as we explored the remainder of the UNESCO site. We then made our way to the Lapidarium in the basement of the building.

Lapidarium

The Lapidarium is located in the Baroque cellar of the west wing two floors below the Abbey Library. The Lapidarium area served many functions in the past. It once was used as a wine cellar and storage area, but is currently the home of an exhibition that is filled with the remnants of architectural sculptures from the monastery’s past. As you walk through the Lapidarium, you will see the different building phases that the abbey went through over the thousand years of construction.

When you exit the elevator or stairs, go left to enter the Lapidarium. You will probably be welcomed by a staff member who will provide you with a fact sheet about the exhibition. If not, they are located on a nearby table for visitors to take. They are in a variety of languages. Each object in the exhibition is numbered. Explanations of the objects can be found next to the corresponding numbers on the information sheet. There are 9th and 10th century Carolingian and Ottonian pieces. There are many early medieval capitals and architectural sculpture in the exhibition. Other objects have been dated from the 15th to the 17th century. One such example that I found impressive were the keystones from the library of Abbot Diethelm Blarer (1551-1553). If you enjoy architectural history and design, it is worth the time to visit the Lapidarium.

Also on this lower level is an exhibition entitled “The Cultural History of the Abbey of St. Gall”. The exhibition is comprised of various artifacts in display cases, as well as detailed explanations with copied illustrations and texts on vertical panels. It provides details about the culture and history of the abbey from the time of the Gallus all the way to contemporary times. There is a detailed scale model of an abbey that was built using the original Carolingian plan held in the Abbey Library. Visually the exhibition was quite interesting, but there was one problem. Although there was a brief description in English on a provided pamphlet the vast majority of the information (all of the vertical panels) were only available in German, and as a result I could not comprehend large portions of it. Had it been in English, I could have easily spent another hour reading through all of the historical background information, but I was sure that much of it was in the book I already purchased. After spending just under an hour inside the Lapidarium and viewing the additional exhibition, we finally made our way to the cathedral.

Cathedral/Convent of Saint Gall

The cathedral that stands today is quite different from its original form. Over the course of more than one thousand years the cathedral underwent a series of building projects. Originally built between 830 and 835 was Abbot Gozbert’s minster with the Gallus Crypt. The Church of St. Othmar and Helmhaus was built between 864 and 867. St. Othmar’s crypt was later built around approximately 980. The Late Gothic hall choir was consecrated on 1483. The Church of St. Othmar was consecrated in 1628. Each construction project built on the work of previous generations. The final building project resulted in the construction of the present day church.

During the late 17th and early 18th centuries, most Benedictine abbeys undertook extensive Baroque renovations of their churches. Due to political upheaval and social unrest, the Abbey at Saint Gall was delayed for many years until a plan was developed for the renewal and redecoration project that took place between 1755 and 1768. The work was commissioned to Peter Thumb and many of the same craftsmen who would also be responsible for the Library’s completion. Sadly, the building project resulted in the demolition of large portions of the medieval monastery. The new structures were designed in the late Baroque style, and today it stands as one of the last monumental Baroque buildings in Europe. Its exterior can be easily viewed from the surrounding area by locating the twin towered facade of the cathedral.

The interior of the cathedral is quite a sight to see. From the west apse, the interior of the cathedral is almost 100 meters in length. “The nave and choir are long arms that were built as three-bay halls with wall pillars”. (See source below.) The main walls and columns are painted a bright white that reflects the sun’s rays to brighten the entire space as the light shines through the large windows. The decorative stucco work and capitals were completed in a pale sea foam green reminiscent of the green patina from aged copper. There are rose marble altars with a gilded altar screen. The ceiling is comprised of a series of arched domes with vaults covered with frescoes that depict biblical characters, saints and cherubs sitting amongst the clouds in heaven.

The walls are covered with countless reliefs, smaller paintings and additional stucco work in addition to a number of smaller altars and probably the nicest wood carved confessionals I’ve seen to date. The same can be said for the choir stalls. There were also other furnishings like the pipe organ, pulpit and choir gate that were equally impressive. The level of details and precision displayed throughout the Abbey at Saint Gall demonstrate the work of master craftsmen. I was probably so overwhelmed, it explained my only touring mistake of the day.

Ooops… I Forgot About the Crypts

There are two crypts that are situated at opposite ends of the church. One is located below the raised podia of the high altar. Here you can find a small crypt, the east crypt that dates back to the 9th century and is the oldest part of the abbey. There lies the grave of St. Gallus. On the opposite side of the church is the west crypt below the organ balcony dedicated to All Saints. Located there as well are the tombs of St. Othmar and several abbots and bishops. On some of the walls there are remnants of 10th century frescoes.

Sadly, and I would say rather oddly (for myself and my never ending desire to leave no stones unturned) I did not make my way to the crypts. I found no signs leading me to the crypts despite walking around both ends of the cathedral. To think, after all of that I didn’t even visit the tomb of St. Gallus. Perhaps it was the end of the day and I was tired. That could also explain how I missed the crypts, but it’s still not like me to miss something when I am at a specific attraction, particularly a UNESCO site. I didn’t skip it. I guess we both simply forgot. Maybe if I sat down and looked at the book a bit more, it would have triggered my memory to visit the lower level of the cathedral. As I write this I am a bit disappointed in myself, but since it is so close to my friend’s home, I won’t need much of an excuse to revisit. Since you may not have this luxury, don’t be as absent minded as I was and make sure to properly locate and visit the crypts when you come to the Abbey at Saint Gall.

Departing St. Gallen

After around 4 hours of exploring the Abbey at Saint Gall, we decided to call it the day. (Although looking back an extra 15 minutes in the crypts would make me much happier right now.) By 3 p.m. we began our walk back to the car at the Neumarkt Mall. After a quick stop to use the bathroom and grab a quick bite to eat, we were on our way back to my friend’s house to get ready for a training session at Crossfit Werdenberg.

Conclusions

The Abbey at Saint Gall is an amazing monastery in the heart of the city of St. Gallen, Switzerland. The history of the thousand year old complex is displayed throughout the various buildings that I toured during the day. The exterior of the cathedral was almost as impressive as its interior that remains one of the most important baroque monuments in Switzerland. The Abbey Library (Stiftsbibliothek) was like taking a walk back in time. You could feel the history in the room. Its craftsmanship and attention is almost incomparable. The same can be said for its collection of historical documents. The architectural artifacts in the Lapidarium only added to the history of the abbey and the overall experience. Make sure to locate and visit the crypts when you visit the cathedral. If you are a fan of history, architecture, literature, culture, religious buildings, and UNESCO sites then visiting the Abbey at Saint Gall is a must for anyone in the area. Perhaps when I return during warm weather, I will be revisiting the UNESCO site to cover the crypts, explore the outside grounds and some of the other buildings in the monastic complex.

Source Information

Numerous times throughout this article I quoted, paraphrased or referred to a book that I purchased at the store outside of the Library. It was extremely helpful and provided ample amounts of detailed information about the entire Abbey. The citation follows:

Grünenfelder, Josef. The Abbey of St Gallen: A Guide to the Cultural History. Lindeberg Im Allgäu: Kunstverl. Fink, 2012. Print.