Teacher Trekker

My interest in the Cu Chi Tunnels began many years ago. The first book I ever read about the Vietnam War included a number of stories about the use of tunnel systems by local Vietnamese forces and the obstacles they posed for American soldiers. This military tactic was included in countless other books whether they were textbooks or biographical accounts of war stories written by soldiers who fought and survived the conflict.

Finally, I was on a detail in the military where I was out in the woods for days supporting another unit’s field exercise. I had countless hours of silence ahead of me waiting for soldiers in the field to make contact with my communications outpost. One of the Special Forces tactical operations sergeants let me borrow a book entitled The Tunnels of Cu Chi: A Harrowing Account of America’s Tunnel Rats in the Underground Battlefields of Vietnam by Tom Mangold and John Penycate.

I finished the book in less than 3 days. The stories were compelling and the experiences on both sides were genuine. Readers could gain a great deal of insight into the resilience of the Vietnamese people and persistence of hard-nosed American soldiers. My senses were on high alert, but nothing compared to those who lived and fought inside the tunnels on a daily basis. I told myself whenever I finally made it to Vietnam, this was on my must do list. I needed to know more. I wanted to crawl through the tunnels. This experience was probably at the top of my Vietnam War site bucket list.

Booking the Tour

The streets of Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), Vietnam are lined with countless travel agencies that offer a multitude of tour options, the majority of which are available everyday of the week. As always, I also wanted to see as much as I could in as short a time as possible. The question was, what did I really want to see? Visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels was one of my must visit destinations in South Vietnam. My first option was the Mekong Delta floating market & Cu Chi Tunnels tour. The second included a trip to the Cao Dai Temple in place of the floating market. Initially, I had only nominal interest in visiting the temple, but after looking at all of the tour options and completing additional background research, it seemed most time efficient to go on the combination Cao Dai Temple & Cu Chi Tunnels tour. It was really the only tour option to visit the temple. There are many other half day and full day Mekong Delta tours available. The price for the Cao Dai Temple & Cu Chi Tunnels tour is around $10 and can be scheduled at any of the countless travel agencies throughout the city.

Leaving Ho Chi Minh City

Most full day tours based out of HCMC will pick up passengers at their hotel in the early morning. Pick-ups are usually between 7:00 and 8:00 a.m. I was the last passenger picked up promptly at 8:00 a.m. The van showed up right on time, which was a rare occurrence in Vietnam, but I was not aware of that considering I was only 5 days into my trip. The van was primarily full, but I found an empty row of seats to pass out on, exhausted from a previous night of World Cup soccer. Afterwards we made our way to the highway where we sat in a heap of traffic fighting our way out of town. When the driver is complaining, you know it’s real traffic and not a figment of a traveler’s imagination. At some point I fell asleep as the van crawled its way down the road.

Destination # 1 – Disabled War Victims Crafts Cooperative

For more information about the Disabled War Victims Crafts Cooperative please refer to the full article.

Destination # 2 – Cao Dai Temple
For more information about the Cao Dai Temple please refer to the full article.

Destination # 3 – Lunch

After touring the Cao Dai Temple, we were brought to Ngoc Tuyet 1 for lunch. We were greeted by a very friendly woman who was also the owner. She sat with us and we learned about her colorful past. She began to show us a number of awards on the wall that she earned during the war where she aided/fought with the Vietcong resistance in the south against the Americans. She mentioned something about an AK-47 and an American soldier. Then she pointed to the medal she received. It was a new perspective, and I had many questions. Although she made small talk with all of the tables, she basically sat with us while we ate and took my questions.

The meal was good, but nothing spectacular. We weren’t given any choices. A number of plates were put on the table for everyone to share. There was pho, fried chicken wings, a number of vegetable dishes and white rice. The meal was basic, but flavorful. It was another example of where the restaurant and tour agency are in cahoots, but there weren’t any other options.

The price of the meal was already included in the tour. Drinks however were not included, and the staff did everything in their power to serve you overpriced beverages. I ate with a number of people that I struck up a conversation with earlier in the day. We all had our own drinks, yet were given drinks that were opened for us despite attempting to explain we didn’t order them. Clearly, we had to pay for them. Despite these minor issues, it was a relaxing hour with decent food and an eye opening conversation I never expected to have, but would become more accustomed to as I traveled and interacted with people throughout Vietnam.

Destination # 4 – Cu Chi Tunnels

Following lunch we jumped back into the tour van and continued on to Cu Chi Tunnels.

History of the Cu Chi Tunnels

Tunnel systems were originally developed during the 1940’s when the Vietnamese were fighting for their independence against the French colonial rule that continued following World War II. The project began by digging with simple tools and bare hands. After the war with the French ended, the tunnels fell into disrepair, but conflict with the Americans resulted in the construction of a super network of tunnels that expanded throughout the Cu Chi district to reach the countryside in all directions, even as far south as the edge of what was once Saigon (HCMC) and as far west as Cambodia. By 1968 there were an estimated 250 km of tunnels throughout South Vietnam.

The tunnels were multilayered to include 3 levels of tunnels and were used for a variety of functions. The top was used for combat operations and served as the link between support bases and outposts for the Vietcong forces. The levels below provided the logistical support that made living and fighting out of the tunnels possible. There were shelters that protected soldiers and civilians during bombing campaigns waged by the Americans from the air. These were used as weapons, food and storage caches. Kitchens were used to cook food in ways that minimized the output of smoke from the tunnel vents. Small infirmaries and make-shift hospitals tended to the injured and sick. Schools taught children and adults alike. Officers discussed tactics and developed battle plans in meeting rooms. By day, the communist forces remained hidden in the tunnels and at night they crept out into the darkness to operate under the veil of the black jungle night.

For years the French and Americans attempted to neutralize the tunnels, but to little avail. The bombing did little to destroy the lower levels of the tunnels and made its effectiveness minimal at best. Dogs were used to sniff out the tunnels, but black pepper and red chili was used to mask the scent coming out of air vents hidden in ant and termite hills. Smoke outs and chemical gases were used to flush out the enemy. Bulldozers would level entire sections of jungle. “Tunnel rats” with pistol and knife in hand were used to venture inside the tunnel systems, but were often confronted with various booby traps that made searching the tunnels difficult, to put it mildly. Perhaps it was a box of snakes or a trip wire: the tunnels were well defended. Numerous operations designed to locate and eliminate the tunnel systems had little overall impact. The effectiveness of the Cu Chi Tunnels was proved in the beginning of 1968 when Vietcong troops supported by the North Vietnamese Army traveled down the Ho Chi Minh Trail and used the tunnels as a major base of operations during the assaults on Saigon during the Tet Offensive.

Life in the Tunnels

Life inside the tunnels was difficult and posed its own challenges. It was, however, a better option than avoiding daytime bombing runs and search & destroy missions by U.S. forces. The same soldiers referred to the tunnel conditions as “black echo” and that it was. Much of the tunnel systems lacked lights. Oil lanterns and candles were used. Eventually electricity was added to portions of the tunnels, but life was primarily devoid of light.

All basic necessities were lacking. Air was poorly ventilated throughout the tunnels despite many architectural attempts to remedy this reoccurring problem. Most problematic was dirt and debris covering air vents after bombing runs. Food and water were always in low supply. Continual air campaigns would force them underground for days without the ability to tend crops, open vents or replenish supplies.

Then there was the risk of disease and creepy crawlers. There were biting ants, scorpions, spiders and centipedes. Snakes and other vermin also made their homes inside the tunnels. Some of the insects and reptiles were also poisonous to make matters worse. Sickness was common and spread like wildfire throughout the tunnels. Malaria was actually the second largest cause of death after combat inflicted wounds. Dysentery was common, and there were also reports of outbreaks of cholera. Surviving below ground sounded as difficult as above ground.

Tour & Tunnels

The tour began with a brief introduction of the history of the tunnels that I just mentioned. We were then brought to a small tunnel not connected to the larger system. It was approximately 5-7 m in length. Our guide opened the hatch and before even asking who wanted to volunteer, I was jumping into the hole and was ready for further instructions. All I was told was when you reach the fork follow the light.

When I first entered it was pitch black. Little did anyone know that I have a flashlight on my backpack that I brought into the tunnel with me. Once I turned it on, I startled a bat that flew right into my face. That’s when I determined that the scent inside the tunnel was that of the guano and decaying leaves that covered the floor as I crawled through the narrow tunnel until I found the light beaming down from the exit hole. Everyone clapped as my head emerged from the opening. It may have only taken 2 minutes (the most), but I was covered in sweat and dirt. Not many people in the group followed my lead. The weather began to pick up and the rain only made the conditions worse above ground and inside the tunnels.

There was some destroyed American military equipment including what was left of a tank. The guide challenged anyone to lift the main cannon more than 20 times to earn a prize. No one volunteered, but I again was chomping at the bit. I was not given the exact weight, nor could I find the information after some research, but it was heavy. It was easily over 50 lb. and could’ve been substantially more.

I accepted his challenge and had a short workout at Crossfit Cu Chi. I tossed up 27 reps before stopping, but could have kept going. He then told me the record was 30 by a German tourist who was, according to my guide, “double my size”. I was upset he didn’t tell me there was a record, because I could have easily thrown up a few more reps. The prize was a can of soda of my choice, but they only had Coca-Cola or Sprite. I’m not even a huge soda drinker, but a prize is a prize, so I willingly drank my victory Sprite.

We then were shown a series of reproduction shelters, huts, booby traps and other defensive fortifications. The huts were constructed with a higher level of detail and precision than during wartime for the purposes of longevity of the structures, but are good examples of the straw hut style buildings that were used during the war. They were filled with unexploded ordinance, weapons and other machinery. There were mannequins dressed up as the Vietcong that were positioned to demonstrate various jobs and tasks performed underground and in the above ground areas around the tunnels.

There was an entire section of working punji pits and other similar bobby traps. Some of the variations were new to me. He forgot to mention the use of excrement to essentially poison the tips of the bamboo or metal spikes, but I made sure to point out that fact to my group. After walking through this section, we made our way to the primary tourist tunnel, but he said something worth noting on the walk over.

I despise blanket statements that use words like always and forever. I teach my students the problematic nature of using these terms, because they turn your words into absolute truths. As we know that is not always the case. For example, the guide mentioned how the “Americans always walk into bamboo traps”. If that was truly the case, the Vietnamese should have put their guns down and made the entire jungle one big bamboo trap since they “always” walked into them. This type of rhetoric only continued throughout the day.

The rain only worsened as we made it to the tunnel. It was an extremely muddy and wet experience, but I did not mind it. If anything, it felt more authentic that way. The trend continued as I was the first one from the group in the tunnel. Typically, the point man on combat operations is the most at risk of enemy attack. Fortunately, there was no enemy inside the tunnels posing danger to my life or so I thought.

The employee at the entrance asked me where I was from. After replying he snickered and told me to be careful, because, “many Americans were not lucky inside tunnels! Many Americans die!” Suddenly, a wave of apprehension and nervousness overwhelmed my body, but I knew there was no real reason to be fearful. It’s not like there was a grenade waiting to explode in my face or anything.

I proceeded to enter the “black echo” tunnel. The previous group was so far ahead of me, and my group was so far behind me, that I truly felt alone. Rain water rushed through the narrow tunnel making the red clay ground muddy. Puddles also began to form. This made it difficult to get through. There were exits cut out of the main shaft every 10 meters or so, but at no point did I consider that as an option. Many people did use it as an option, especially as the tunnel narrowed. At one point the I got into some traffic. I caught up with the people in front of me and got someone to take a photo for me. In the meantime my group caught up with me before I proceeded to the end of the tunnel.

At first I began in a squat position ducking my head as I made my way through the tunnel, but towards the end, the shaft narrowed in both height and width. I’m not a large person, but it was so tight, that I had to remove my small messenger bag and low crawl to pass this portion of the tunnel. By the time I made it out, I was soaking wet and covered in mud. There was a clean-up station with running water, but I let the heavy rainfall wash the dirt and clay off my clothes and body. It’s crazy to think that the shaft was widened to accommodate Westerners who are generally larger than Vietnamese. I don’t want to imagine what it was like when the Cu Chi Tunnels were in operation during the war.

Just Say No to Third World Shooting Ranges

After going through the tunnel, everyone was given the opportunity to shoot a number of different types of machine guns. They ranged from small single shot and/or small magazine rifles all the way to the M-60, commonly referred to as the “Rambo gun” by gun novices. Individuals were required to purchase bullets in order to be able to shoot. You couldn’t purchase a single bullet to fire. In most cases you needed to purchase a magazine of at least 10 bullets, and for the fully automatic weapons, even more, depending on what you chose. You didn’t think it was free did you?

Once upon a time I had the opportunity to shoot a vast array of weapons system in the American military’s arsenal. I’ve unloaded projectiles from an M-19 grenade launcher and used explosives. I’ve also shot  foreign weapons systems including the AK-47 and most of the other weapons they had at the range. This was not going to compare to my past experiences.

I was tempted to shoot the M-1 Garand carbine rifle (standard firearm for U.S. troops in WWII, Korea and the beginning of the Vietnam War prior to the introduction of the M-14 then M-16), because it’s the only weapon I didn’t fire of all the choices. Regardless, shooting a poorly maintained weapon that I have not sighted personally is less than ideal safety conditions and is not my idea of a good time.

If all of this is new to you, then perhaps you might want to spend some money and shoot for a few minutes, but I would recommend going somewhere with better maintained weapons and safety measures. Do you really trust the people around you? The staff? The tourists? Anyone who is a gun enthusiast or has experience with firearms will probably pass up this opportunity.

Therefore, if you really want to shoot firearms, go to a reliable range and spend the extra money. Get certified and know how to handle a firearm. Your safety should come first, then the experience. Guns are not toys, so please do not treat them as such. Go somewhere reliable where safety is paramount, the weapons are new, and they were recently cleaned. You’ll thank me later!

It’s Not a Vietnam War Site Without a Propaganda Film

The final part of the tour took place in a large hut that included maps, models and a television. They played a propaganda film that appeared to be edited in a pre-digital age. Some of the information was completely accurate, particularly the portion about the role of women during the conflict. The majority was filled with anti-American rhetoric that would become a theme amongst all the documentary films I watched while in Vietnam.

The first reference to an American used the phrase “crazy US devils” who “shot up everything from… soldiers, women, children, schools, earth, even… pots and pans.” Yes, even the pots and pans where enemies of the US war machine! During another point in the film it said, “killing Americans” 4 times in the same sentence about one VC soldier. Another startling quote was made in reference to a woman who after using her gun and grenades was “awarded the American killing medal”. Wow!

My favorite part was the inflated statistics that were mentioned throughout the film. The hardest one to swallow was the numbers regarding how many American planes were shot down by soldiers on the ground with carbine rifles. The probability of a single carbine bullet hitting a F-4 at bombing run speed is slim enough, but to do it at the rate suggested in the film makes it come across like the Vietnamese shot down American planes at will with one of the weakest of their projectile based weapons systems. Furthermore, if the tunnels were used to hide from American bombing runs, then what was someone doing above ground shooting a rifle at a fighter jet? Something just doesn’t add up.

Like all propaganda produced by the communist Vietnamese government, it was a completely biased retelling of the events that glorified the Vietnamese freedom fighters and vilified the invading Americans. Sadly, it started raining so hard that no one could hear the second half of the video, but the message was clear enough without it. At times I get hit with a wave of war guilt, but not today. I was more upset at the inaccuracies than anything else. Fortunately, I know to take such rhetoric with a grain of salt.

Conclusions

I’m glad that I decided to choose the combined tour as it was the most time and cost effective way to visit two major destinations. I was surprised that it was never mentioned that we would be stopping at a Disabled War Victims’ Crafts Commune filled with people who suffer from ailments as a result of long term exposure to the side effects of war. I was also glad to make a contribution and acquire some beautiful artwork to display in my home and give as presents to family. The Cao Dai Temple was the most unique religious site I have thus far visited in my travels and certainly worth visiting. Lunch was average, but helped me gain some insight into the tactics the tour agencies use in relation to meals and hidden costs.

The Cu Chi Tunnels were everything I expected and more, or should I say less considering their size. Museums filled with artifacts behind glass display cases are one thing, but this experience was getting me closer to the realities the soldiers on both sides of the war in Vietnam faced. The propaganda was plentiful, but comically entertaining. The poor weather only added to the claustrophobia inside the tunnels. The years I spent reading about the conflict and dedicating my studies to it in undergraduate and graduate programs was finally coming full circle. It was a good appetizer that stimulated my senses and made me look that much more forward to the series of other war related sites I planned on visiting. Finally, the tour was run well, and we experienced no problems along the way. My spirits were high, and I couldn’t wait to explore even more in the days ahead.