Teacher Trekker

History of Dalat

During the 1890s, French colonial explorers in the area asked for permission to create luxury resorts in the Central Highland area. The governor agreed, and after some time was spent looking for the ideal location, construction began shortly after. City planning and the building of infrastructure were completed by French architects and designers. Dalat was designed to include parks, schools and churches that all share similar architectural designs from this era. Over time the city became filled with villas and boulevards reminiscent of French style that can still be seen today drawing in domestic and international tourists.

Dalat managed to steer clear of being involved in much of the modern military history of Vietnam. One exception that I found particularly interesting took place during the American War in Vietnam. Dalat was just one of many cities that were attacked by the Viet Cong (VC) and the North Vietnamese Army (NVA) during the Tet Offensive. Between January 31 and February 9, 1968, a battle over control of the city took place between communist and non-communist forces. Most of the fighting was between the South Vietnamese MP units (with some US soldiers) stationed in Dalat and VC soldiers. Over time, the South Vietnamese forces relying on strong defense positions were able to defeat the communist troops and claim victory. This information and much more of the local history and culture mentioned next was acquired during a discussion with our tour guide.

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Dalat Cable Car

At approximately 8 a.m., Yann, Samira and I left our rooms and were greeted by our tour guide Thanh who was already waiting for us outside the hotel. We briefly discussed our itinerary and then jumped into a crossover utility vehicle similar to a Subaru hatchback that was our transport for the entire day. After a short drive to the top of Robin Hill, we were at what appeared to be the highest point in the city center. We took photos as our guide pointed out some of the buildings and mountain peaks. I noticed a great deal of telecommunication towers and posed a question. It turns out that there are 3 or 4 major telephone and wifi providers in Vietnam. Interestingly, they include the Army, the government and private businesses. Our guide Thanh mentioned that everything comes at a cost. One offers better phone rates, while the other offers better internet data plans. I forget which provider he uses, but he said it costs as little as 70,000 dong (US$3.50) for one month of wifi service. From the crest of Robin Hill tourists had clear views of the entire city, but most were there for another attraction altogether.

Located at the top of Robin Hill is the starting point of the Dalat Cable Car. The ride takes tourists 2.3 kilometers to the base of the hill and offers some amazing views of the surrounding Central Highlands on the way down. Visitors have the option to buy one way or round trip tickets. Purchase a one way ticket at the visitors’ center and get on line. Although the line was long it was constantly moving, and we were in our cable car in only a few minutes. During the ride to the base of the hill, the three of us took many photographs of pine tree covered mountain scenery with beautiful lakes in the valley. The cable car leads travelers directly to a major tourist attraction in Dalat.

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Truc Lam Temple

Located on Phượng Hoàng Hill is Truc Lam Temple. This Zen Buddhist monastery is considered to be one of the largest temples in Vietnam in terms of size and scale. There are many buildings that encompass the 24 acres of property, but most are concentrated in one area. There are countless statues, carvings and large decorative sculptures throughout the monastery. In addition to the art, the grounds are quite beautiful and very well manicured. For example, there was a flower garden that contains many species of local flora all with vibrant colors and unique shapes. Despite the beauty of the monastery and the surrounding area, there is a complete lack of historical significance to this site. Construction of the temple was completed in 1994. Therefore, there is no long term historical connection that can be made at this site compared to many other temples and locations throughout Vietnam.

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Tuyem Lam Lake

After our time at the monastery, we moved on to our next destination. Close by the temple is Tuyen Lam Lake also referred to as Paradise Lake. On August 30, 1998 the lake was recognized as a National Cultural Heritage Site, and it is listed as one of the 21 National Tourism Areas in Vietnam. What boggles my mind is that based on the information provided to me by the guide and later the internet, the lake is actually man made from water that flows from the Tia stream, so how can that be a cultural heritage site? Don’t get me wrong, the lake and surrounding area is picturesque. Those traveling to the area can participate in a variety of outdoor activities including, but not limited to camping, hiking, mountain climbing, swimming, fishing and boating. I easily see how the lake and its surrounding area is a national tourism zone, but the cultural heritage aspect was lost to me. After we walked around a portion of the perimeter of the lake we then got back to our ride where our driver took us to our next destination.

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Datanla Falls

We went to two waterfalls. Both cost approximately $1 to enter. We began at Datanla Falls where we spent just under an hour. The walk down to the falls was quite steep and the mist only made it more slippery as you approached the bottom of the hill to reach the waterfall. At the bottom of the hill was the waterfall. The site was flooded with tourists which made unobstructed picture taking virtually impossible. There was staff dressed up in traditional Lat garments and many people took photographs with them. There was also a restaurant for refreshments. Overall, the waterfall was pretty, but not so large or picturesque that I would add it to anyone’s must do list.

We did not take advantage of all the park had to offer. There was a mini roller coaster, more for children than anybody else, that took you to the bottom of the hill. There was also a small cable car that could take visitors up a portion of the hill. Finally, there were separate tours that took people rappelling down another portion of the waterfall. Personally, I have done some rappelling in the past and did not see this as an efficient use of my money and/or time. Yann and Samira agreed. The half day tour would have prevented us from seeing many of the other attractions we would be able to visit during the day.

The walk down to the falls was not the difficult part. The walk up, however, was a nice workout. Since there were so many tourists, it was very hard to walk up the steps as quickly as I would have liked, but according to my Fitbit pedometer, we climbed over 17 flights of stairs in a matter of minutes. We watched as local Vietnamese women hiked up in stiletto heels, skin tight dresses and sun hats like they were at the Kentucky Derby. You could hear the sounds of agony as people made their way up the path. I am a fitness junkie and was already walking an average of 10 miles a day in country, but this was a challenging incline to say the least. Once at the exit I poured a bottle of water over my head dripping down my body and clothes.

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Prenn Falls & Zoo

We jumped back in the van and quickly made our way to Prenn Falls & Zoo. This waterfall park had a great deal more to see and do than the previous waterfall park. We first made our way to a small temple on the grounds and what felt like a Zen meditation area. After taking a leisurely stroll, we made our way to the falls. The waterfall was again not massive in size, but this time you could walk under the waterfall on a concrete path. Nearby were a variety of statues connected to the local culture and folklore of the Lat people. Additionally, there was a small bridge to cross, as well as the availability of small boats, horse carriages and camels to ride around the falls area. As you walked away from the waterfall towards some of the other attractions at the park, you would catch a beautiful view of Elephant Mountain (because the slope of the mountain looks like an elephant’s trunk) in the background.

The park also contained a small zoo, an orchid garden, ostrich farm and an elephant preserve. Yann and Samira were not interested, but I paid my $1 to gain access to the flower garden so I could take some photographs of local flora, but I was immediately upset for doing so. The flowers were not the problem. The zoo was. I was welcomed by the snake guy, who like most tourist traps basically places the reptile on your shoulders and demands money after he takes photos of you with the snake. I didn’t ask for photos even though he took my camera from me to snap away countless shots. I refused to pay him, and he got rather mad at me, but there was little he could do to stop me as I walked away. The conditions the animals were forced to live in were appalling. Most of the monkeys and other animals looked emaciated and malnourished. One in particular didn’t move a muscle as I walked up to the cage. Many of them were visibly stressed and uncomfortable. There was even a goat that had a mutated fifth leg/hoof hanging off one of its other limbs. It was so sad. I did stay to take more photos, but only for the purposes of sending them as documentation to animal rights groups to inform them of the conditions. I left what they attempted to call a zoo with a feeling of remorse. Looking back I should have kept my dollar and taken additional flower photos at many of the various parks and free flower gardens around Dalat.

Yann and Samira waited for me by the elephants. I quickly told them about the grim conditions of the animals at the zoo. We did not partake in the elephant ride. It was on a predetermined path and not in open wild jungle. It looked more like the elephant was walking around a racetrack than it did walking in the open. After the ride they were chained, but mostly to prevent any safety issues with visitors. The elephants were out in the open being sprayed with water for people to watch and minimally to interact with. The three of us had no regard for the park rules and had something else in mind. Most parks require you to purchase fruits to feed the animals. Instead, we just collected durians, sugarcane and watermelons from the area they were storing all the fruit, walked right up to the elephants and fed them. We were the only people doing this. Everyone else was standing around watching us, and that includes most of the staff and the people who just finished up their elephant ride. We actually had a very good time interacting with the elephants. We really were doing it to make sure that the elephants were being fed, but we also got some amazing photos of us interacting with these gigantic mammals. While the elephants looked like they were being treated with greater care than the other animals, this was only our observation based on what we could see on the surface. The true reality will remain a mystery to the majority of tourists who visit the Prenn Falls tourist attraction.

We also skipped the ostrich farm/rides fearing the same mistreatment was occurring to them as other animals in the park. The vast majority of tourists who interact with wildlife at parks and preserves around the world particularly in third world countries will be forced to ask themselves serious questions about the conservation and preservation of these animals. Frankly, it is a catch-22 where you’re damned if you do and damned if you don’t. Overall, the park was filled with natural beauty, but the mistreatment of many of the animals put a bad taste in our mouths as we left for our next destination.

On a side note, if you are attempting to go see the largest waterfall in the area where you can swim and relax, you will need to secure a ride to Elephant Falls. According to a driver at Easy Riders he said the trip would take almost 30 minutes away from the direction of most of the other major attractions. They can take you by private car/van. You can also rent your own motorbike, or they can provide a motorbike driver where you ride on the back to your destination. For tourists interested in Vietnam’s natural beauty and outdoor activities, this is an afternoon activity that can be combined with the half-day rappelling in the morning. Had I spent an extra day in Dalat, that’s what I probably would have ended up doing.

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Linh Phuoc Pagoda

We jumped back into our transport and made our way to the Linh Phuoc Pagoda, also referred to as the Ve Chai Pagoda by locals and the Dragon Temple by Westerners. Construction began in 1949 by monks of the Mahayana sect and was completed by 1952. The architecture is simply amazing. Much of the mosaic detailing was completed using glass pieces from recycled bottles and terra cotta. Dragon imagery can be found all over the pagoda from the interior rooms to the exterior tower, pillars and roof. There are bas-reliefs that detail history that was explained to us by our guidem much of which I sadly forget at this point.

There is one chamber in particular that contained 108 statues of “Heaven and Buddha’s Eyes”. There are large carved wooden Buddha statues. The flower garden has a dragon winding through it that appears as if it is flying through the courtyard. The complex also contains a large dried flower sculpture of Buddha that has won world record awards for its grandiose design.

Finally, there is also an enormous wishing bell in the climbable tower. The bell, considered the largest in Vietnam, was built in 1999. The bell is detailed with artwork depicting statues of Buddha, other temples, words that are foreign to me and instructions on how to strike the bell. This extremely colorful architectural design is one of the most impressive pagodas that I visited during my time in Vietnam, and I would recommend a visit to anyone in the area.

Visitors are allowed to make a wish and strike the bell three times for the entire surrounding community to hear. I was unfamiliar with the process and was assisted by a woman who was working at the pagoda. In a sort of mock sign language, we were able to communicate allowing me to take part in the ceremony. I was ushered to a table with pen and paper so I could write my wish. After I wrote my wish, the woman pointed to a paint brush that was in a cup of glue where I applied a strip of glue to the top of the paper. Then I put my wish below the last wish on the bell. Finally, I took a large piece of wood similar to the size of a campfire log and proceeded to ring the bell three times. Actually my second strike was very soft, so soft I actually think the woman didn’t hear it. I was trying to be as respectful of everyone at the pagoda and local area as possible so I didn’t want to smash the bell. Following making my wish I continued to climb to the top of the tower stopping at each level to view the statues and shrines on every floor. Once at the top, you are in for a treat, because you will have an incredible view of the surrounding farms and countryside in the area.

Just note that when walking without shoes around the pagoda, there are many small minor imperfect steps, ledges and curbs, as well as metal stairs that may result in a visitor bashing their toes and hurting themselves while exploring the pagoda. I am speaking from personal experience when I bashed my toes on a one centimeter lip between tiles. I ended up with a huge bruise on my foot and a limp the remainder of the day that hindered my trekking for a few days following my accident. Honestly, I’m making it sound worse than it really was, but at the same time, it easily could have been much worse. You live and learn. It was a good lesson so early during a trip where I would be walking around shoeless for in some cases the majority of my day.

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Dalat Train Station

After viewing the beautiful architecture and artist design at the Linh Phuoc Pagoda we went back to the city center to stop at the Dalat Train Station. Let’s remember that Dalat was once the French aristocracy’s summer vacationing region. The train station is regarded on the internet and in all of the travel books as having French architectural influence. Let’s also remember I was traveling with two people from Paris, France. Upon arrival Yann was very confused and kept asking the question, “how is this French?” or he would simply state, “this is not French design”. I was quite amused.

Personally, the train station was a waste of time. The architecture wasn’t anything impressive, and if it was French, it was a minimalist French style from a past with which I was not familiar. There was barely anything to see or do other than a small portion of an old train that you could take a photograph in front of. Sadly, I do not have such a photo to post here, because a family of Thai tourists monopolized the space for so long that many people became frustrated and left. They made a plethora of attempts to take the perfect photo with everyone’s camera, and there were at least a dozen of them. After the long day we all had, none of us felt like standing around and waiting for this rude and inconsiderate horde of a family to wrap up their affairs and share the public space with the rest of the people at the station. I recommend skipping this attraction unless you are going to use the train for transport purposes.

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Back to Easy Riders Club

That was the conclusion of our tour, but I was not finished. I discussed with Thanh that if possible, I wanted to visit a few more locations. It was only around 3 or 4 p.m., and I still had a few destinations I wanted to check off my list before leaving Dalat the following day. He said he would be willing to continue working and said he didn’t get off of work until 5 p.m. so that’s when I decided to work my free promotion angle and it worked. Yann and Samira were still observing Ramadan. They were extremely tired from the long day and decided to rest and take a nap prior to dinner. Before the driver brought them back to the hotel, he dropped Thanh and I back at the Easy Riders main location.

From there I was served my daily cup of coffee and had some time to rest my feet. As my coffee slowly dripped into its cup, I sat with Thanh and discussed how he would like me to promote their business. I instantly posted a photograph and detailed caption that linked to all of my social media pages recommending their tour agency to anyone traveling in the area. I also promised to write a full review when I got the opportunity, once back in the states, thus the Dalat post that you are reading now. Once that was wrapped up, I pounded my cup of coffee, and we were back on the road, but this time instead of a car, I was being transported around on his personal motorcycle.

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Bao Dai Summer Palace

A few minutes later we arrived at Bao Dai Palace 3. The palace, built during the 1930’s in the art deco style, was the summer retreat of the last emperor of Vietnam, Bao Dai. Thanh dropped me off at the gate and told me he would be outside whenever I was ready. I paid the 15,000 dong entry ($0.75) and made my way onto the grounds. I first walked around the building and took some photos of the garden areas. That is where I met two Americans who I would spend some time with at the palace. Theresa and her mother were visiting Vietnam for a number of reasons. They were visiting family, and Theresa was working on developing her website. For more information check out the Humans of Vietnam group on Facebook.

We made our way to the front entrance where we were first asked to put protective booties on our shoes. They were similar to those you would wear at a hospital. The building contains 25 rooms and provides a view into how the emperor and his family lived. There were signs in both Vietnamese and English explaining the function of each room as you make your way through the building. There is a clear walking path that they want you to follow, but many of the overcrowded tours took up large areas of space that made us bounce around the floor plan in order to see all the rooms and avoid the crowds they created. It was a continued trend that local Vietnamese tourists were everywhere in Dalat on their own vacations. It was actually quite small and not in as pristine condition as I expected. Overall, I was not very impressed during my time there.

This is not a stop on the “backpacker must do list”. Furthermore, I would not suggest this stop for travelers unless they are interested in the history of Vietnam. If it were not for my time with Theresa and her mother, I would have probably made my way through the building much faster, but it was nice to have an extended conversation with intelligent Americans that had local knowledge and cultural insights that I would not have been aware of otherwise. After we parted, I made my way back to meet Thanh. It felt like the second I left the exit gate a torrential downpour burst from the clouds that were rolling in during the latter course of the afternoon. We tossed on our ponchos and were back on the bike.

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Hang Nga Guesthouse

Our last stop was to the Hang Nga Guesthouse also referred to as the Crazy House, but unfortunately it was closed. It was the weekend, and the site is only open to visitors on weekdays. Only guests can gain entry inside the building. The building is an odd looking building with strange architecture that resembles a cross between the forests of Middle Earth and something out of Fantasia. From the exterior, I was not impressed and wasn’t very upset that I wasn’t able to walk around inside. There is little to no cultural relevance, and it is simply a house of bizarre art. It felt gimmicky and, in a way it was a tourist trap.

Saying Goodbye to Easy Riders Vietnam

It was still pouring and already after 5 p.m., so it was time to make a run for it. We actually bumped into Theresa and her mother again as we were leaving the Crazy House. Thanh took me directly back to my hotel. We parted ways after I thanked him for an amazing day. He managed to take us on a grand single day tour around Dalat where we were able to get to many locations filled with natural beauty and cultural significance. After freshening up in my room, I proceeded to get Yann and Samira to figure out where to get dinner.