Teacher Trekker

On the way to the Cu Chi Tunnels our tour group a number of stops before reaching  our final destination. Our first stop brought us to a disabled war victims crafts cooperative. Workers produce polished wooden artwork of all kinds that is available for purchase in their showroom.

Destination # 1 – Disabled War Victims Crafts Cooperative

I remember waking up to the sounds and vibrations of rumbling over potholes. It was at that point I almost fell out of my seat after the van descended into a hole in the road the size of a bomb crater. We were in the process of pulling off this poorly constructed road for a bathroom break, or so we all thought. This portion of the tour was actually a complete surprise. No one in the van was aware of this stop, nor was it advertised in any of the brochures.

The Production Warehouse

We arrived at a warehouse surrounded by nothing but lush green rice fields. We were told we had an hour. That’s the longest bathroom break ever! Sure, there was a bathroom and even a fruit smoothie stand (that were very good), but that’s only part of the reason why we stopped there. Upon entering the building there was a large sign indicating the true intentions of our stop.

Although I do not have a formal name for it, we were at a craft village that employs disabled citizens impacted by the long lasting effects of the Vietnam War. I would classify the workers into two categories. The majority were impacted by the long term effects of Agent Orange and other herbicides and chemical defoliants that were used by the US military during the Vietnam War. Direct exposure, contaminated ground water and soil resulted in a variety of health problems including, but not limited to mental disabilities, cleft palette, hernias, missing and/or extra limbs/extremities, conjoined twins, skin diseases, many forms of cancer, and other genetic mutations. There was another group of disabled individuals who were victims of unexploded land mines and bombs. Regardless of their ailment, a war that took place over 40 years ago still poses challenges for the citizens of Vietnam.

The scene was both tragic and uplifting all at the same time, a true dichotomy of emotions. It was a very upsetting scene to witness so many innocent victims whose lives were impacted by a lack of care for or understanding of the long term consequences of the chemicals dropped on the Vietnamese countryside. Yet, at the same time this was a facility where the people affected could focus their attention on the development of artistic skills in order to create some magnificently detailed wooden lacquered products. Jobs varied based on ability. Different stations and areas of the warehouse were utilized for different parts of the artistic process. Some of the workers were more skilled than others, but everyone was in deep concentration refining their skills. All of the work required a great attention to detail and precise craftsmanship. After walking around the workspace, I was interested to see the final products.

The Showroom

The main showroom was quite large. There was everything from large wall sized plaques and folding screens to small bowls for dining and decoration. There were a number of themes running through the work. They include: Buddhism, Christianity, local Vietnamese culture & traditions, generic Asian imagery and finally a message about the mission of the disabled workers crafts village. I didn’t plan on purchasing anything, but once I entered the showroom I wanted to purchase a number of items.

When I began looking for some souvenirs, it became obvious that I required some assistance. It seemed that the workers were as confused about the organization as I was. Although things were grouped in most cases by size, the prices varied based on detail. For example, you could find the size plaque you wanted, but as you flipped through the designs they would vary between lacquered/unlacquered and quality of materials, like those that used mother of pearl instead of an imitation composite material. All of these factors impact the overall price. It made shopping difficult, because I had to scroll through row upon row of the same size plaques only to find the design I was looking for, but not in the finish or materials I desired. Eventually, with help I found everything, but it took a great deal of time that the group didn’t really have. Fortunately, I wasn’t the only one.

After finding everything I was interested in purchasing, I went to the shipping line. The sign reads that they will ship your order for you, but this is not the case. They will package the order for you, but do not ship. This wasn’t the biggest issue in the world. I was able to go to the Saigon Central Post Office the following day to ship my order back to America, which led to its own mini-adventure. Follow the link to learn more about navigating your way in the post office and some tips that would have assisted me immensely had I been aware of them.

Something else came into mind while touring the warehouse. I wondered if this was exploitation of these people. I wondered if these people were there as much for show as they were there for the jobs. Was the intention to create war guilt and/or extreme sympathy to inspire sales? (If so, it worked!) Then I wondered what percentage of the profits was making its way back into the hands of these workers. How much was the government taking? These are all questions I do not have the answers to, but hopefully with additional contacts in the area, I will be able to better answer these issues in the future. If you have more information pertaining to this topic or any of the questions posed please email me.

One final thought. It is quite common, not just in Vietnam, but worldwide that tours make stops at businesses that have partnerships where they receive kickbacks and other benefits from one another. Typically, this bothers me, but in this case I was more than willing to take part in the assistance and recovery of disabled citizens. Maybe there was some war guilt. Sure, I wasn’t alive nor did I dictate US policy, but I felt it was important to make a contribution. Besides, I got some amazing artwork to give as gifts to my family and display in my own home.

Conclusions

Whether it was on the tour itinerary or not, I was very impressed with what I saw at the disabled war victims crafts commune on the way to the Cao Dai Temple. Yes, it was quite sad to see so many victims of the long term effects of exposure to chemicals like Agent Orange and those who have lost limbs because of land mines and previously unexploded ordinance. Yet, it was uplifting to see them working at this commune gaining technical skills that help earn them an income and promote awareness about their continuing struggle. Without hesitation I bought some of their beautiful crafts. Most were gifted to family members, and others are now on display in my home. Although I was in no way responsible for the outcome of a conflict that took place years before my birth, this experience made me more aware and upset at how the decisions made during a war in a previous century continue to take a toll on the future. I felt that purchasing these items was the least I could have done. If you happen to visit this location or another like it, make sure to do your part and assist in the support of victims of war related collateral damage. A few dollars can go a long way in assisting these communities, so don’t be a cheapskate. You’ll walk away with some beautiful art and a warm heart.