Teacher Trekker

The first UNESCO site that I was able to visit in Vietnam in 2014 was the My Son Sanctuary. At approximately 5:00 a.m. I got picked up outside my hotel by a tour van that was already filled with people. Unlike most of my tours in Vietnam, this one came only a few minutes after the scheduled pick up. I was once again the last person in the van and once again got the worst seat on the bus. I was forced to wedge myself into the back row between a person and the wall of the van. The only problem was there were already four people seated in the row and the fit was extremely tight. My only other option would have been to stand bent over near 90 degree angled position. No thanks!

The ride from Hoi An to the My Son Sanctuary is approximately 65 km (depending on the route) and takes around an hour to travel there. Standing was not an option. Once we arrived our guide informed us that we needed to purchase tickets. They only cost a few dollars, but we were all under the assumption they were paid for already. Following that and a short bathroom break, we made our way into the ruins.

Location

The My Son Sanctuary is located in the mountainous Duy Xuyen District of the Quang Nam Province in central Vietnam. Its location served as a strategic advantage that allowed for easy defense of the area. It is located in an elevated basin and is encircled by mountains that provide water to the Thu Bon river. The Thu Bon river begins here flowing past the monuments towards what was once the heart of the Champa Kingdom. The river eventually drains into the South China Sea near the ancient port city of Hoi An.

The Cham Civilization

The construction of the My Son Sanctuary was completed by the Cham people (also referred to as Champa or Campa), a unique culture on the coast of what is now contemporary Vietnam. The Cham migrated a great deal over the course of their history. From what is now Southern China, they moved eventually towards eastern Myanmar and later into present day Vietnam. The Vietnamese people were also continually pushed out of the north towards the south by invaders and other expanding civilizations. This forced the Cham to relocate south into the Mekong Delta region where some of their descendants can be found today.

The Cham people were heavily influenced by Hinduism that spread from the Indian sub-continent. This cultural diffusion was most likely the result of traveling Indian merchants. As a result, the religion spread throughout the region and can be seen in their art, architecture and religious practices. Many of the temples built honor Hindu divinities, such as Krishna and Vishnu, but most importantly Shiva. Although Mahayana Buddhism spread throughout the Cham culture and became extremely influential in the north of the kingdom around 400 CE, Shaivite Hinduism remained the established state religion. Eventually the spread of Islam in the 11th century had long lasting effects on the Cham people (that are not relevant to discuss further in this article). Today the majority of Cham located in Vietnam are Hindus, while in Cambodia they are predominantly Muslim. Hundreds of years of conflict and cultural diffusion have significantly reduced the number of Cham to a population of only 400,000 in contemporary times.

Cultural & Historical Information

The My Son Sanctuary possesses some of the most important building projects undertaken by the Champa civilization. The temples and ruins at the My Son Sanctuary can be dated back as early as the 4th and continuing to the 13th centuries CE. The temples were built in what was then the homeland of the ruling Dua Clan. They were responsible for the unification of the Cham clans and the founding of the kingdom of Champapura (Sanskrit for City of the Cham people) in 192 CE. As time went on, the location underwent continuous building projects over the course of a thousand year time period. After ascending to the throne Cham Kings would begin construction projects that resulted in the additional temples. Due to this, the My Son Sanctuary is full of highly decorated carvings, statues and impressive temples many with high towers.

The My Son Sanctuary allows travelers to visit a myriad of temples, stupas and other buildings. In general the temples were grouped together based on the time period they were built. Each group of temples share similarities with others. Every grouping includes a main stupa temple called a kalan. Smaller tertiary temples encircle the main one. The temple gates face east. During ceremonies worshipers prayed as they traversed around the temples in the clockwise direction. They would also pour the holy water on the linga (the masculine), a physical representation of the Hindu diety Shiva. The poured water would drip through the yoni (the feminine).

The architecture of the stupas can be divided into three parts. The top represents Mount Meru, a sacred mountain and the mythical home of Hindu gods. The middle represents the linga. The base represents the yoni. There are also countless statues dedicated to the protector of their kingdom, their God, Shiva.

The majority of the construction was done in fired brick. Covering the walls of much of the architecture are countless sandstone bas reliefs that depict stories from Hindu mythology. The ancient text on the stone tablets appears to be a derivative of Sanskrit. Some claim the writing is reminiscent to that used in Sri Lanka during the same time period. It is no longer used by the Cham today.

Modern archeologists, engineers and historians are all perplexed by the architectural achievements of the Cham civilization. They cannot accurately determine the construction techniques that were used by the Cham. There is no visible mortar or glue between the bricks to hold them in place. Some even go so far as to imply that the construction was connected to the ancient aliens theory. I was reminded of this fact after my visit while watching a television program about the mystery behind the unknown origins and purpose of key locks. Only time and future excavation will help us learn more about this unsolved architectural puzzle.

For the majority of its existence the site served as the religious, cultural and political capital of the Champa Kingdom. It was the location of important ceremonies and the resting place for kings. A number of royal tombs have been found in the area. At its peak there were believed to be 70 structures at the site, but today only 25 of them are left standing. Some of the temples are in better condition than others. The jungle has reclaimed land once lost to the Cham people making existing structures more difficult to find and excavate. Centuries worth of time, erosion, weather damage and war have led to the eventual disintegration of the buildings. American bombing campaigns during the Vietnam War resulted in the damage and destruction of a number of the temples. There are visible bomb craters to prove it as you walk the grounds.

The My Son Sanctuary stands as a testament to the history of the Cham civilization. The temples and associated buildings are evidence of a once long lasting empire that endured in the jungles of Southeast Asia. The site provides insight into the spiritual, cultural and political lives of the Cham people. The location depicts changes that occurred over the course of a thousand years of development before their eventual demise.

Boat Ride

At the conclusion of the tour of My Son the group split up. A number of people went back to the van for the return trip to Hoi An. The rest of the group went to a nearby dock to hop on a boat for an add-on excursion to the tour.

The boat ride back to Hoi An was a fresh change of pace. It was a great opportunity to sit and relax after a few hard days on the road. The breeze blew in my face as I breathed in the fresh air. I made sure to sit away from the exhaust. The landscape was a lush green with mountains in the distance. The humming sound of motors rang in my ears as fishing boats whizzed past our much slower and larger boat. The fisherman steered their narrow boats almost recklessly carving past one another and our vessel with abandonment. It was quite a sight despite the annoying sounds. I took it all in while I ate the white rose dumplings that I remembered to bring with me. They were a great snack after a hot early morning in the jungle and made the boat ride back much more enjoyable. After approximately an hour we docked at our last stop of the tour.

Kim Bồng Carpentry & Woodworking Village

After disembarking the boat, I was welcomed by a sign that read, Làng Mộc Kim Bồng. Kim Bồng is a carpentry village in the Cẩm Kim Commune of Hội An in the Quảng Nam Province. The name was derived from the Vietnamese words kim (yellow) and bồng (floating), because of the jackfruit wood that would float down the Thu Bồn River.

Since the 15th century, village craftsmen have dedicated their lives to refining their carpentry and woodworking skills for the production of a variety of different projects. From cabinet making to shipbuilding, they have done it all and continue to do so. The community reached its peak during the 18th century. They had their hands in building projects at the Imperial capital in Huế, as well as supplied ghe bầu (large sail boats) and other smaller vessels for the surrounding region. Their craftsmanship can be seen throughout Hoi An and as far north as Hanoi where they completed work on Ho Chi Minh’s tomb. The quality of their work, regardless of the time period, is hard to deny.

The village experienced a period of decline during the 20th century. However, efforts were made to reinvigorate this once thriving community. Tourism drives the Vietnamese economy and the government is fully aware of that fact. Starting in 2002, the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism (VNAT) organized a community led tourism project in Kim Bồng with the assistance of UNESCO and the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development/World Trade Organization’s Export-Led Poverty Reduction Program (EPRP). The village was chosen because of its history and much in part, because of its proximity to the already popular tourist destination of nearby Hội An. There are now training programs for young apprentices that have resulted in a sharp rise in the number of craftsmen and businesses. Finally, the project has provided an additional revenue stream for the village. Hopefully, other local communities can learn from the successes in Kim Bồng and begin their own sustainable tourism projects based on this successful model.

We spent around an hour walking through the village. Other tourists were taking advantage of the bicycle trail that allows them to ride through the village, stop at local woodworking shops and observe craftsmen working on projects. Instead, we did this by foot. We stopped at a number of different businesses, each with their own specializations. All were impressive. I could sit for hours and watch craftsmen and artists produce their work. Maybe it’s because my artistic talents are limited. I am always impressed by someone who can take a rectangular block of material and turn it into a precisely carved Buddha statue with intricate detailing. A group of craftsmen were working on what I assumed was going to become a door that absolutely blew my mind. Their attention to detail was so precise it was almost unfathomable.

Last, but not least, tourists have the chance to do some shopping. Each of the local businesses have their own stores that sell many different kinds of finished goods. Think of something that can be made of wood, and you could probably find it in the village. Some items were crafted with more detail than others. Certain items could be purchased in a natural wood finish, while others were painted or lacquered. The options were in many respects limitless, but remember to bring money.

The prices were also fair. Buying in bulk and aggressive negotiating always reduces costs. However, I only had a small amount of bill notes on me. I couldn’t purchase any of the larger items I wanted to buy. Only some of the businesses accepted credit cards. I could also not find an ATM. I’m sure if I had more time and truly more interest in purchasing something, I would’ve found a way. Many of the items I liked were big and bulky. I didn’t want to carry and/or ship anything else, so I ended up only purchasing a few small knickknacks. If I had a decent amount of money on me, I easily could have blown it all on some really cool handmade goods. After our time in the village, we hopped back on the boat. A few minutes later we were docking in Hoi An right by the morning market. It was only around 11:00 a.m. and I had a full day to explore.

Travel and Tours

The tour to the My Son Sanctuary is a half a day excursion. Travel agencies offer sunrise, morning and afternoon tours. Regardless of time, they are roughly $10 depending on negotiations. I would recommend going on the sunrise tour. You will get picked up from your hotel between 4:30 and 5:00 a.m., but upon arrival you will be able to witness a beautiful sunrise bursting over the mountains as rays of light shine down onto the temple complexes. Additionally, the extreme temperature and humidity in the jungle area will result in a ridiculously sticky day. I was there at the crack of dawn and the weather was already becoming bothersome. Go early!

The drive from Hoi An to My Son Cham Ruins takes approximately 1 hour 15 minutes. Motor vehicles are required to stop about 1 km away from the ruins. Jeeps can get you there quickly, but there weren’t any in sight when we arrived. Instead we walked 15 minutes or so to reach the ruins. The tour around the My Son Sanctuary will last anywhere from 1 to 2 hours. Like many tours in Vietnam this is dependent on your tour guide.

On the return trip you have two methods of transportation available to take back to Hoi An. The first is to jump back on the bus, which is the cheaper option. For an extra $2 or $3 you can take a boat ride back where you will stop at a local crafts village along the river before docking back in Hoi An. (Note: While Kim Bồng is only one of the possible craft villages that your tour may visit, there will only be one stop at a craft village.)

This extended portion of the tour is a nice option, if you enjoy boat rides, want to visit another town and shop for handmade goods. Personally, I would recommend it for a number of reasons. It only adds an additional hour or so to your trip. More importantly, you can relax and enjoy the natural landscape during the boat ride. The crafts village had interesting handmade goods for respectable prices. Seriously, where are you in such a rush to?

Finally, remember to bring snacks and liquids as there are few opportunities to purchase anything significant during the tour. With the exception of some bottled beverages, you will only have what you came with until you arrive back in Hoi An.

Conclusions

Compared to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the ruins at the My Son Sanctuary are on a much smaller scale. For travelers who have already been to Angkor Wat, they may find the temple ruins at My Son to be disappointing. Despite that, the temples at My Son were actually built several centuries prior to any of the other Hindu-influenced structures in South East Asia. This makes the sight that much more significant. Sadly, the ruins are still in serious disrepair as centuries of natural and man-made degradation have seriously compromised many of the structures. Significant efforts have been made to protect and restore the location, but it still requires large amounts of funding and extensive man hours to fully restore this site back to its previous glory. The boat ride and crafts village add-on was a good addition to the trip that allowed for new chances to see natural landscapes and interact with local artisans. It was an early morning, but I was back early and had a full day ahead of me. If you are in the area you should visit the My Son Sanctuary for a sample of ancient Vietnamese history. Click here for a redirect to my Instagram feed with another My Son Sanctuary image.

Please refer to the UNESCO World Heritage List for more historical & cultural information about the My Son Sanctuary.